Dance to beat of the rain

It was Henri Stierlin through his pages of Hindu India (Taschen's World Architecture) who got me to see the ancient temples of India from a historical perspective. His detailed technical illustration of the old architecture explained the beauty behind the great stoned pillars and the influence the ruling kingdoms had on the designs. He not only captured the beauty and the soul of the place spot on but also led me on a journey to explore and appreciate this precious heritage for myself.


One of the magnificent temples which I have recently visited, and which was also illustrated in his book, is the Thiruchendur Sri Subramnayeswara Temple. The temple is located in Thiruchendur, a small coastal town under the Panchayat Raj Administrative system. I had been here on other occasions when young with my parents, years before I got this book.  Getting to Thiruchendur is easy – there are excellent overnight and day-passenger trains and bus services from all major cities in south India.  There is also a variety of accommodation, including free ones offered by independent organization groups.

Breath taking sights.

Thiruchendur is a small town so, getting around is easy – by foot or an auto (a three wheeler taxi). It’s a homely place, people are just so lovely and welcoming. Just as they welcome us unconditionally, we welcome the other creatures who share the walking space with us – the beautiful long-tailed (called a train) peacocks and peahens, working cows, temple elephants and the mischievous long-bearded goats. If you are patient, you may even see a peacock dancing. There is a saying that peacocks can feel the rain coming and their dance is a sign to the rest that rain is to come. When that happens, hold on to it, dance internally to that beat.

The temple has a seven-tier high tower gate (Gopuram), which was built facing the seashore (Bay of Bengal) by saints. Early inscriptions found here are believed to date back to 875 AD. In 1649 the Dutch briefly occupied the temple during their conflict with the Portuguese.

Photography is not allowed inside the temple, but the picture-perfect sun rises over the horizon are not to be missed. If you think you’d be alone at the wee hours, you’d be surprised. Accompanying you would be thousands of others, without cameras or cellphones, who are up early to say thanks to the sun for their existence. It’s a pleasure to just be there with them to feel that greatness and say thank you.

Coffee is always a treat in India. In Thirujendur, try one from Mani Iyer’s.  We usually have our meals and snacks here.  The coffee goes well with a tiffin meal such as dosa, and let me inform you, they have the best rava dosa I have ever had. As for the coffee, the key to a perfect one at Mani Iyer’s is a strong white. Sugar is usually added in. If you want less or don’t want any sugar, inform them when ordering. Traditional coffee in India is served hot,  white and with sugar. In my opinion, the style is similar to a ‘latte’ because of the way its prepared - hot milk with a coffee decoction added. The coffee amount is adjusted for its level of strength.

Tried 'em all. Its your turn now.

Hot drinks are appreciated by most in South India. It is common to see small vendors selling coffee and tea at their portable setups. I like these a lot. Their earnest effort to make a living in any small way tells me that the problems we face today are just a little test that we need to overcome now to handle the different opportunities we are handed over tomorrow. I have tried some of their coffee, I can taste that passion so strongly and I hope you do too.

A self-guided tour through dark temple corridors started by looking through the pictures of Taschen's world at Bangalore Airport where I picked this book up (back in 2000).  Now it’s travelled a world beyond with me. Those ancient bells chime as the sun rises, it’s another day. The ancient structures are speaking.

Enjoy your coffee to the sounds of the ocean and to the beat of the rain.

He made it just right. TQ!

Does Puteri really like the Sand

I sometimes can't get enough of the sun and sand. They are usually the deciding factors that veto the rest of the options when selecting a short getaway - it is simply a love for the ocean. If you and I have similar travel preferences, you'd be spoilt for choice of beaches in South East Asia. The only thing that would get in your way for that sea-breezed Pina-colada, are the forces of nature - the monsoon and typhoons. Since it's not yet that season, (time and budget on the alert radar), and more importantly the sun had been glorious over the last few weeks, it wasn't difficult to decide where to go for a day. And Port Dickson (PD) it was.

SunSet

Port Dickson is a coastal town located in Negeri Sembilan, 100 KM south of Kuala Lumpur. It's a rather quick 45-minute drive on the busy north-south Expressway to Seremban, and then a 30-minute scenic drive through the palm oil estates on the Seremban-Port Dickson highway. There are many similar destinations in the country, but because of its close proximately to Kuala Lumpur and easy accessibility, PD is positioned to meet the increasing domestic demands for weekend family outings and corporate team building events. It is popular among Malaysians and Singaporeans.

If you have some time to spare and a good book to read, try taking the KTM-Komuter train to Seremban and then take a short 2KM walk to the Seremban bus station to get a local bus to PD.  It would take you about 3.5 hours from Kuala Lumpur central station to reach your hotel if you don't make any other stops and don't lose your way. Alternatively, there are the frequent inter-city bus services from Kuala Lumpur to Seremban and then hop on to another local bus to PD. I had taken the train route on a few occasions and enjoyed the smooth ride each time — the travel budget – easy on the pocket for a casual traveller.

Do book your hotel early if you wish to stay there over the weekend. Even the most basic hotel would charge not ‘so basic prices’ during peak, and most weekends are considered peak hour.  Accommodation and food options are plenty to suit any budget. We had visited PD on numerous counts over the years, seen it grow over time from a small town with just a few hotels to what it is today – a place offering a suite of accommodations from a variety of apartments, hotels and backpackers’ hostels.

There are a few things to do around Port Dickson. This time around we visited an ostrich farm to see for ourselves these enormous birds up close and personal.  We made friends with the 4-year old Puteri, the friendliest Ostrich on the farm and met some of her other mates including a bunch of retirees. After petting some ostriches, rabbits, and donkeys, we were on the way to see the bird's eggs. Though these weren't laid recently, we still got to see one that hadn't hatched yet.  I would say it had an industrial strength shell. I stood on and jumped on it, and it wouldn't crack. My poor foot paid a dear price for that.

New Friends

Some interesting facts, these birds are native to Africa and are the largest living birds today. They can weigh up to 145kg and have very long necks. They do not fly, and no, they do not bury their heads when in danger. Though it was reported that ostriches had been spotted swimming in Australian waters (no one knows how they got there), I didn't see any displaying their swimming talents in PD. If you are curious to know how the bird tastes, the farm does offer ostrich meat dishes in the restaurant. They did not have the coffee I wanted to try on their menu.

Today, I am sharing two photo shots. First, one from far away, many miles away from sea level, sandy beaches, and long-necked ostriches. Bedoin. It's a shot taken by a colleague and friend who recently went on a cycling adventure up to Mount Ventoux, south of France. The air here is fresh, and the atmosphere is calm, making the coffee experience a relaxing one.  After many hours of cycling uphill to the top, it surely would have brought some relief when sipped.

At Bedoin

Next is a Get-Up-Uma coffee against the serene sound of waves splashing. Though I could be here forever, eyes closed, listening to the crashing waves - the reality of the coffee smell brought me back from that place far away.  The grey waters spoke to me of a hurried world, reminding me to pause a while. While Port Dickson and the ostrich farm may still be here tomorrow, not everything else may. There are so many over-riding priorities and over time, finding the equilibrium that fits one will become a necessity. The night before, the evening clouds cleared up making way for the stars to light up the skies.  I am hoping these are the same ones to find that stability.

Bliss

Pause, take your time. Enjoy the coffee.

All Beered up to a GoALLLL!!

Being a pre- iPad generation has its advantages, you actually know what a television box is, and for some, the television is regarded as a prominent family member that owns the rights to designated space in homes and comes with marked ‘do-not-move-me’ territory.  Some of us also know how this black-and-white box had evolved in shape, size, look and form over the years, from its humble beginning of being just a big jumbo, perhaps a Philips, in the centre of the living room to the current hand-held versions that get lost so easily in our overstuffed hand bags and  back packs.

If you go back in time, to the mid-90, years before the Kardashians hit the mainstream, there was a popular show called Globe Trekker (The Lonely Planet). This is an adventure travel television series where I felt I was Aladdin on a magic carpet, observing from above, shouting to Ian – 'watch out for that greasy food', 'don’t jump into the freezing lake you eejit' and, 'are you sure you want to bungee jump?'. 

It was also through this series that I formed some of the items on my to-do list. One of these was to visit the fairyland castle which a young king known as Ludwig II of Bavaria, also known as the mad king or fairy tale king, built and lived in. Neuschwanstein Castle. Ludwig II was the closest living fairy tale king for me. I was charmed by his daringness to be different, his respect for art and music and I just had to see this great madness that history talks about for myself. According to history, Ludwigs II aimed to replicate medieval architecture, mainly the Romanesque, and to pay homage to the operas of Wagner. Wagner was his favourite composer, and well, that’s a name I recognise from learning music days too.

Train reservations ✔. Train tickets printed ✔. Phone charger & clothes packed ✔. Euro & credit cards in my wallet ✔.  Es arrived from the US ✔.  Michaels Sp. advice for Munich & Oktoberfest first-timers’ sealed ✔.  Now, we are all set to go wild. ✔✔✔

First, stop Munich. Munich is 560KM from Bonn or 400KM from Frankfurt, Munich is the largest city in Bavaria and third largest in Germany. The name is derived from the term Munichen which means “by the monks”. This dates back to the days when the monks of the Benedictine order who ran a monastery that later became the old town of Munich. Like its other rich European city counterparts, Munich also is home to numerous museums, theatres, and universities (we walked where Einstein once walked). It is also the home of the BMW head office and the widely celebrated Oktoberfest. Munich has an interesting history that goes beyond the cobble-paved walkways, great composers, breweries and the famous Rathaus-Glockenspiel, and I would highly recommend that you read about it before coming to Munich or join a walking tour like we did to appreciate the sights and flavour of its culture and people. And as for vegan food – there are plenty of options, we tried the cuisine from Bodhi before setting out for a treat to hear the music of a great composer, Vivaldi.

Around Munich

Next stop, Oktoberfest. Remember Michael’s advice on do’s and don’ts ✔. Oktoberfest is an annual 3-week folk festival for all ages. The highlights include a travelling funfair for families, lots of local Munchen beer (for sale) from famous breweries, a display of decorated horse carriages & floats of breweries and lots of brass bands and music. The main attractions for me were watching the visitors dressed in traditional Bavarian outfits, the girls/ladies had beautiful hair-dos and of course the gigantic beer filed mugs. I had always wanted a mugshot with one, and the rain that morning didn’t stop us from getting to the tents for that shot. While there is so much fun and entertainment here, the basic rules of common sense apply. Here’s one I put up for first-timers in no order:

·         be dressed as a how Bavarian would be for the fest ✔

·         be aware of who is next to you ✔

Inside a beer hall

·         touch nothing that doesn’t belong to you ✔

·         if you do, wake up from your dream, apologise and move on ✔

·         know where the restroom is for ‘litter’ in all forms ✔

·         do not order lime juice unless you want to be famous in the tent ✔

·         you'll never be alone, join in the fun with any table ✔

·         if you are from out of town, know where your hotel is ✔

·         pay and tip the waitress, it’s not free beer. ✔

Did you follow the rules?

In the end, Dirndl for this visit ✗, but for the next visit, a big ✔.

@ Arena Allianz

Next. Football tickets ✔.  Directions to the Allianz Arena ✔.  The teams playing were FC Bayern Munich and FC Koln. Both wore red.  I was in blue, Es in white and since we were the only two non-German looking fans, we were forgiven for not wearing their colour. We sat with the visitors, cheering for Koln. They welcomed us instantly and even more when we told them we arrived from Bonn. FC Bayern Munich 1, then FC Koln 1, the first round of celebration beer thrown onto us in excitement. I read that in Europe, football could either unite, break or create walls and war. Being there I felt that intensity as I watched the passionate fans turn away when a free kick was awarded to the home team. Final score 1-1. We left happy together with the thousands who had their own versions of celebration.

Finally, it’s time to visit the home of the famous king of Bavaria. But before that a stop for some coffee to fuel up. My coffee shot is one which we had very early in the morning at a quaint café located in Hotel Sonne in Fussen. 

Large Booster

It was pretty much early, cold and wet when we arrived in Fussen (a small town approximately 130KM away from Munich). The city, at 6am, was still pretty much taking it easy for the moment. Though the hotel was serving only their in-house guests at that hour, the friendly manager on duty must have heard our recusant tummies growling loudly for a hot brew. We were served, and grandly I must say. The aroma was so stimulating that it refreshed us instantly. We would have stayed here longer for the warmth, but we had caught the local bus to the ticket centre in Hohenschwangau.

Leave early and wear good non-slip pair of footwear because the uphill trek from Hohenschwangau to the fairy castle is a good 45-minutes one. For us it was on a wet path (it rained just before) with trails of horse poo that you’d need to watch out for. 

In Fussen

We tried racing against the horse-drawn-carriages, but the horses beat us flat. Walking, cycling or horse carriage rides are the only options to go to the castle. Get there even earlier if you want to take the carriage, the queues are long. Keep your cameras and handphones ready at all times, the sights and panoramic views get more breathtaking with each step uphill. The Hohenschwangau Castle and lakes are some of the shots not to be missed from the top.

Worth the walk up

After burning a good number of calories, the cake waiting up there is the impressive and magical castle - Neuschwanstein. As I write this, I feel like I am once again in that fairyland. Three items checked. I need that Aladdin here again.  ✔✔✔

Another view

Update Oct19: Added photos

Vitamin Doppelespresso, Keep the Spin On.

A few weeks ago, I introduced you to my perfect-7, the Mississippi. Some days I am chattier than others and today is one of them. As such, my blog takes us back to last year, to Deutschland where there are so many more places, people and of course great coffee to talk about and this, trust me, is going to take me forever to get to the finish line.

Laundry and hotels. These were two essentials that got me a little anxious when I was in Bonn. I will tell you why. 

Now, a lovely city like Bonn has plenty of hotels, but hotels were fully reserved even before my trip had been decided on due to events that were going on in Bonn and in the cities nearby. So, I couldn't secure a reservation at the same hotel for the entire trip. Therefore, I stayed at different hotels, on different days, in the same town, depending on the room availability. Does this sound fun to you? Yes? Actually it was not.  

I usually am game for a nomadic adventure, but after the 3rd check-in-unpack-pack-checkout in the same city, the moving got less exciting than it was in the beginning. My colleague Miro who on the other hand arrived in Bonn (during the same period) without a reservation (due to late travel request), even had an interesting NYPD-like encounter at the hotel where he stayed. His comical illustration of those events will forever be one of our dinner time conversations. Ding-Dong, Ding-Dong! I am still amused. If nothing else was available, as Libor suggested, there is always a place in Königswinter. Now that little town away from Bonn is a charm! Definitely a good choice to stay at. At the end all worked out well, we all survived! We each had a roof, and the city went about doing just great to host those events.

I usually am game for a nomadic adventure, but after the third check-in-unpack-pack-checkout in the same city, the moving got less exciting than it was in the beginning. On the other hand, my colleague Miro who arrived without a reservation had an interesting NYPD-like encounter at the hotel where he stayed. His comical illustration of those events will forever be one of our dinner time conversations. Ding-Dong, Ding-Dong! (catch up with me if you want to know more about this.) Anyway, I am still amused. If nothing else was available, as Libor suggested, there is always a place in Königswinter. Now there's a charm! Definitely a good choice and at the end all worked out well, all survived! All had a roof, and the city went about doing just great to host those events.

Taking in the Godesburg

Laundry needs brought me to a neighbourhood called Bad Godesberg, the municipal district of Bonn. Here is a bit of history I googled: Up until 1999, while Bonn was the capital of West Germany, foreign embassies were located in Bad Godesberg. Today some of these buildings are still used as consulates or embassy branch offices. This neighbourhood, just like the rest of Bonn is a squeaky clean, green and warm. 

My first visit to Bad Godesberg was on the hotel staff’s recommendation when I enquired about coin-operated laundry facilities. So, after work, 'got on the train, got off at Bad Godesberg station. Once there, a short flight of steps up and I am in another delightful and important landmark. When I arrived, I was welcomed by a nice row of inviting outlets. The laundry, the reason for this trip, though not a coin-operated one was closed.  This could only mean one thing, I’d be back again and again and yet again – not only for laundry but also for the leisurely walk up to Godesburg (castle on the hill),  weekend lunch, weeknight dinner and to visit the weekend morning market.  I even convinced my sister who visited me for a few days from the US to explore this little municipal and she came back with loads of magnificent photo shots and a good selection of not-so-easy-to-get fruits back in Malaysia, both left me awed.

Wake me, shake me!

I found a couple of exquisite yet not-so-expensive restaurants and boutique cafes in this neighbourhood, one of which served the best almond croissants. The coffee here was also satisfying. My order for that morning was a fine black one with warm milk. Truly a local flavour! Just as the brightly lit cafe, their staff wore brightly lit smiles as they served everyone. The coffee was a little stronger than what I usually would have liked to have, but that’s me. The snow-flaked croissant, mama mia! The best on the planet. Together, both the coffee and croissant complimented the perfect sunny day outside. The picture here shows only a glimpse of the croissant on the right.

The wake-me-up coffee is as essential as a calm-me-down beer in Germany and here in Bonn is where I got into the habit of reinforcing an afternoon coffee in my routine, all over again. The best part of this is after that cuppa I could still sleep at night!  Most of Germany has a fantastic coffee selection but I like the traditional hot cappuccino the best, it’s worked out to have a pretty consistent taste.  We, or at least the GECO team, didn’t have to go too far in search of one in the afternoons, Nona was our key to the crucial daily question: - Meet you at Nona’s?

Justus, Christian, Saby :  Models-trees-sun
and coffee...studio perfect! 

We don’t know where Nona is today. It’s however confirmed that she hasn’t magically turned herself into a hedgehog; therefore, she is not hibernating in the cold. But she is indeed perfecting the game of hide-and-seek, and since we haven't found her yet, we miss her coffee. Well, on second thoughts maybe, just maybe,  she is taking a break and hibernating from Team-GECO’s he-man-coffee requests. So, until we get the perfect team photo with her, some of my teammates have agreed to be the models to show you how a coffee truck looks and a glimpse into their mid-day routine. As for Nona, come back and brew ‘em the best and express some over to the rest of the team who are offsite. Saby says his coffee needs to be E-ticketed ones these days, for which Nona would very quickly add a couple of extra shots of Espresso into the mix. For those who are wondering, Nona is the cheerful coffee truck owner at the DHL head office site in Bonn who knows everyone's coffee preference.

And tomorrow is another work day. No break for now, but that's not going to stop us from counting those stars to reach Delphi. See you next week in Munich.

Sail Me Home Oh Sweet Mama.

Traffic, crowds, food, and stalls. Some have arrived here early. The smoked-smell of freshly grilled chicken or the Ayam Panggang and Satay linger in the air. The Asr prayers in the background accompany the rest of the traders as they set up their stalls. In the Muslim calendar, this is the holy month of Ramadan. We are at home, in Malaysia.

Setting-Up and Boy I am lost in Dessert-land

If you are like me and love to explore sweet delicacies, especially the once-a-year rarities, you are heading towards the right direction - to find that bliss, to a Ramadan Bazaar.  This is the time of the year when one would always get spoilt for choice of Kuihs (sweet traditional Malay desserts). There are many treats like the fast selling Kuih Pelita (layered coconut and rice flour dessert presented in cute banana leaf based holders), Ondeh-Ondeh (tiny mouth sized green-pandan rice flour balls filled with melted palm sugar wrapped around shredded coconut and a variety of Kuih Lapis  (multi-colour layered rice flour cake).

These food bazaars are temporary ones permitted by the local Municipal Council for licensed traders or hawkers to carry out small businesses during the Ramadhan month while giving both local visitors and tourist the opportunity to sample a bit of Malaysia during the Muslim fasting month. In Kuala Lumpur, these traders usually operate between 4 pm until just about after the Maghrib prayer, around 7.30-ish. The size of the bazaars varies depending on the location. To maintain and encourage recycling efforts and to ensure the hygiene and quality of the food among the traders, the local councils organise various competitions and conduct regular quality inspections.

If you are in the larger cities in Malaysia, you don’t have to go too far in search of a food bazaar. The crowds and traffic backlogs are general indicators that you are closing in on one of them. And if you still haven’t visited one yet, then it’s about time! You may think I am exaggerating when I say this is the best place for Kuih-hunting, but come and see for yourself, you wouldn’t disagree after. The food options are plenty for both vegetarians and non-vegetarians, and they are at affordable prices.

I am sure you realise by now I have the softest spot for anything sweet and if you are trying to reach me on the weekend at 4 pm during the Muslim fasting month, try locating me at one of these busy bazaars.

Sweetness is infectious and lucky for us it’s is not only in the form of Kuihs but also in the friendly smiles offered in exchange as you pass each stall and in their warm replies as you curiously ask about what each item is and how much they cost. It is also in the generous amount of fruit pieces Atiq cuts up for the watermelon juice; in the young cheerful-spectacled girl at Putrajaya Sentral Station who never fails to keep aside a Kuih Pelita packet even if I almost always arrive after her closing time to pick it up. She may not realise, but with that, I sailed home smoothly.

Lets Detox the Water-Melon Way

A freezing cold coffee on a hot day is a tempting call. That’s precisely my coffee today. Its origin is unknown, but I learned from the stall operator it’s a local one and that’s all I need for now. I saw her put in 2 large bags of freshly opened ice cubes into the pre-mixed coffee and gave it an even bigger stir until the mixture blended well with the ice. Trust me, mixing those involve a lot of muscle work. According to the Kakak (sister), she had prepared the mixture at her home earlier today. The result is a full strength cold local coffee with a high dose of sugar and condensed milk. I am riding so high on energy now, I feel like I can run a quarter marathon not only this weekend but on every weekend during this Ramadhan month, until we reach the month of Syawal, that’s when our Muslim friends celebrate the Eid or as we call it the Hari Raya Aidil Fitri here.

Ice-Iced Coffee!

To all readers all over the world, my sincere wish and prayers for peace everywhere. Those stars are not too far within our reach.

Have a great fasting week and enjoy your coffee after.

A Phin, A Song and a Double shot

Picking up from the Vietnamese interpretation in 'UMA', if you have a chance to visit Vietnam, do sample the Vietnamese coffee. It’s one of my favourite local drinks for its presentation style, charm and taste. I am almost certain, if you are a coffee drinker, it would be in your list in no time. A glimpse and sip of it is a sure-fire way to keep the energy and curiosity levels at top notch. And after a cup, you’d probably be craving more just like I did. And no, there's no additives added to it, just a plain ol' have-me coffee. The coffee history here dates back to days of French and Dutch colonialism in South East Asia. The mountainous topology gives Vietnam a geographic advantage to produce a diversity of beans; with the multi-origin beans being the more natural blends of the region. 

Vietnam, I learnt, is today the second largest producer of coffee in the world. The beans are roasted on low temperature for a longer duration using a small amount of buttered oil (or plain oil) with hints of sugar and spices. The result is a fine and lightly spiced-caramel flavoured brewed coffee. It is available all over the country and savoured by locals and visitors. 

Hot booster VC

The Phin is an ordinary low-tech (and inexpensive), non-electrical filter used for its brewing. A Phin + good blend of Vietnamese coffee powder + hot water + cream is all you need for a cracker!  The iced is another fancy serving of the same coffee. I wasn’t adventurous enough to try the versions with eggs or yoghurt or fruit then. Though I am pretty much better at handling the classic rules of taste with occasional diversions, these specialty coffees are indeed on the to-try list. I will get there. Someday. While its presentation is commercialised and sold at higher prices at fancier outlets, it is also available at 'local' prices in everyday joints.

There are another two lasting memories I have of Vietnam. First was the warm and welcoming nature of the local families to accept strangers like us into their social group activities. During one occasion, we were invited to join a teacher’s picnic, share their meals and drink their home-made rice wine. We did indeed accept their invitation but could only stay for a short while. 

Sights and sounds around Hanoi

The second is the desire the local university students showed towards acquiring skills such as speaking in or should I say perfecting their English. One such person is a courageous young girl named Thuy Le. We talked on several occasions, and we exchanged our stories. I found hers very uplifting and some very amusingly-courageous, and just listening to her earnest desire and realisation to improve, to be a better person at that young age is an inspiration. Her parting words were the lyrics from Adele's song, which another tourist-friend of hers had recited to her and she in return passed it on to me. ‘I wish nothing but the best for you.’   I wish her and you the same too. Thuy Le and I are still in contact.

The sun's all out. All I need right now is a phin, a good song and double espresso. 

Enjoy the new week.

Songs of the Sparky Rainbow

I have to admit, I can’t tell the difference between abstract, conceptual, pop, impressionism and Fauvism. To date, there are countless known and unknown talents and to be acquainted with them all, I’d have to attend another four years of college. I would have to major in arts of course, in addition to a life-long practice; and by that, I mean continually being updated in the subject and visiting art galleries & art exhibitions.  I have the same hidden talent for art as I do for singing on pitch, and that is a near freezing point, but I grade myself delirious-temperature for appreciation and respect for the work itself. While I may complete a 4-year course in the subject, I doubt I would ever be an aspiring art critic or painter. Some days we just need to realise the boundaries.

I didn’t have to go too far to find an artist in Nagoya. I found Shogo San! Shogo has many wise years of painting experience and I am fortunate indeed to see his work for myself. His paintings took me on several journeys - over green mountains, across lively seas and flowing rivers and into charming old towns.  Each piece offered its own array of beautiful rainbow shades and brought out the wonders of the magical watercolours. I was transported to a borderless world.  Shogo gave me one of his extraordinary paintings, one with a ship approaching in a near-distance, like the one we saw at the port. Timeless. I can sit on my ship's deck, gaze at the shiny diamonds and sail away through the night, anytime.

We are all the same.

Shogo and Hiroko took us to a quiet Zen-like cafe, not too far from their home. The cafe also houses an art gallery for exhibits. During our visit, we saw the ‘Bintang’ exhibit being featured. A crew from a Japanese TV station was also on site to interview the local artist and to cover this event. Shogo’s friend, an established painter himself, owns this cafe. The interior decor has a rustic flare with large windows overlooking the spring-greens to soothe away the days' tensions. Its seating arrangements was not too compact giving the customers space and privacy to discuss. It has a quiet and a very respectful atmosphere. This is a typical local cafe that attracts many local, creative thinkers. Our Nagoya blend was freshly ground and brewed, served black. And the toothy cookies! So precise, need I say more? They sure know what delights me.

Aichiken Charms.

Just as an artist who has an eye for his subjects, it’s interesting to observe how one develops an opinion of one in the way he/she sees that person. On that though, here is a portrait sketch of me, by a Vietnamese artist. I have been localised and this is how I look in his eyes. It may not look like me, but I cherish his attempt to interpret me. Enjoy your cuppa.

Is that you Uma?

Perfection in Chaos

Though in theory there is a coffee cut-off time, how can one refuse freshly grounded coffee, especially when it’s done the traditional way? I just had to take up Fujiko’s kind offer, even if it was after sunset. The aroma from that antique coffee grinder caught my nose buds and pocket-Samsung’s attention. That’s a coffee paradise from a distance.

Breaking rules and grinding coffee beans

We decided to use Airbnb in Nagoya to be close to our friends Hiroko and Shogo San. Fujiko and her husband Noboyu had a listing available. The pictures looked great, we loved them and so we booked it. A perfectly affordable decision for the trip, or so we thought. This would have been a great stay if you are visiting Nagoya downtown, but we intended to be close to Hiroko’s and Shogo’s home which was a two-hour car ride into another district. Another life-survival lesson - check the map and again, check that map. After a delicious and colourful Japanese-fusion breakfast, Arigatoes and Sayonaras, we headed to Hiroko and Shogo’s who were waiting for us.

Around Nagoya Port and Coffee there

Recurring pollen allergies, viral and hay-fever changed our planned two nights stay in Nagoya to three. This gave me the opportunity to sight endless rows of pink and white sakura blooms, go on strolls in the park with Hiroko while she explained to me about the neighbourhood, Toyota and its facilities for the employees. More importantly, we spent valuable time together with our friends, priceless.

Pretty half blooms in Nagoya

And yes, I am impressed, by the level of detail, pride, respect and perfection this country and community showcases in almost every aspect of live and in their daily activities. It starts with the basics like keeping their rivers, streets and homes clean, efficient public transport, discipline when queueing and waiting for turns and of course, what is life without coffee.  I was amazed, at the number of coffee outlets and their appreciation for coffee. Drip coffee is famous here.  Little did I know that our hosts too regularly enjoy a good cup of coffee in addition to Japanese cars, art and baseball. They took us to the most zen coffee place. I will talk about that next week. I promise. 

Till then, perhaps it’s time to dream about a change – from Proton to Toyota and maybe something beyond. The coming weeks will tell - should the sail head east or west or stay put. Well why not, those stars are talking.

With this entry and on Tamil New Year’s Day, my blog site is now open for all readers. Thank you for your support, encouragement and 'reading me' - you keep me inspired :).

Between stops theres a Chiyo somewhere

Chiyo was my travel companion for many weeks and I wanted her to stay with me forever. However, as the saying goes, all good things must come to an end.  Memoirs of a Geisha is to-date, one of my three most favourite novels of modern times. Chiyo's persona and grief touched me deeply. I felt her presence in a surreal way, and if I could, I would have gone into those words. I wanted to go into her world and change the unhappiness for her. That’s how huge an impact this beautifully crafted novel had on me.

Recently we decided to visit Japan, and I am glad we chose Osaka as the starting place. Having landed in Kansai International Airport, I could finally say, there was hope to feel the spirits of the many Chiyos who went through the same life experiences and bitterness as she had.

After a turbulent overnight flight and confirming that no paying passengers were forced out of their seats by the airlines, the first coffee was an all-black one with creamer. The coffee was actually part of the airport restaurant’s breakfast set. Having wasted the toast and the entire half boiled egg, SVN’s plea was that I did not make the meal decisions for the rest of the day, and even better for the rest of the trip. To be politically safe, that’s democracy practised wisely. Well, I am a 'wannabe' vegetarian (SVN is the genuine one), but I do occasionally skip by choice, and usually on the grounds that the chicken or fish is triple cooked and preferably does not look anything close to its original form.  My colleague Stephan B’s words still linger on - it’s worse karma to waste food than to eat meat. He is right but I can’t help it. I think of Stephan and the chef at Walle who convincingly said it was chicken, chicken and chicken, not pork, I am afraid I don't eat anything that has more than two legs. That chef must have gotten himself confused that afternoon......oops, a slight off track there.

Its breakfast time in Kansai

My morning coffee was good, sufficient, served right - mainly with the help of the universal sign language. The friendly waiters made a lasting impression, and, in all fairness, I would give them high scores for trying.  Today, I am not fussy at all, the coffee experience was just plain, lovely and relaxing.

We all have a different take on things in general, especially on books. While I loved the Memoirs of a Geisha, you may feel differently about the book or Chiyo. There's really nothing wrong with that. As for me, she is vulnerable, loving and you cannot not help but adore and have compassion for her. The suffering Chiyo went through in her lifetime, through Goldman’s poetic descriptions are just too overwhelming. This makes her character an impossible one to reproduce. I love this book to bits and pieces, and I could read it over and over again, over another few cups of coffee. 

Coffee Festival

Count those stars friends, we are heading for Nara. With that, I leave you with some shots taken during a coffee festival while I was there.

On your Marks, Detox, Gooooooo

My colleague, Melvin, called me a traitor this week for drinking tea. I disagreed, it was a detox regime in preparation for the next wave of coffee tasting. I learnt this is necessary the hard way.  My internal cells just do not cooperate the way I want them to i.e., both Uma and her cells are like two separate entities requiring constant counselling on many lessons related to human existence.

Early this month, I finally made that trip to Kampar and Ipoh, the plan that Poh Lin had to dig out of the ancient archives.  This was not my first trip there though.  My father's job required him to move to various places in the country during my schooling years. This gave me the opportunity to experience each state's culture a tad more than just being a happy tourist.  Ipoh was one such place. This recent trip, however, was the first for just a cup of coffee. I booked myself on the earliest ETS train out on Saturday, Poh Lin joined me at her stop in Kampar. I have known Poh Lin for a while now, she once worked in Cyberjaya and was my travel companion on that schedule-less RapidKL bus to work. Up until recently, I had her listed as ‘Pauline from the train’ in my contact list. 

Look look, there it says Old Town White Coffee

Ipoh is the administrative capital of Perak, 200km north of Kuala Lumpur. In the late 19th century, Perak was regarded as one of the more economically wealthy states due to mining opportunities. This brought in many Chinese immigrants who brought along with them the famous ‘kopi’ from China. Today many of these local mines have been forced to close due to the collapse of the global tin industry. However, the presence of the local coffee remains strong.

We visited the famous Jalan Bandar Timah in the old town district.  I was overwhelmed to see a countless number of Hainanese styled coffee restaurants, each carrying its own brand of packaged coffees. We visited two of them. First Nam Chou who is also famous for its Curried Noodles. According to Poh Lin, Nam Chou serves good hot local coffee. So that’s what I had. I liked it, it’s an excellent wake-me-up coffee, stronger than the local coffees that I am used to in KL.

Dymanites come in small packages

The next was one of those life-saver coffees which are my antidote for stress. Many of us know this as the Old Town White Coffee. Nam Heong is where it all started. According to google search, Nam Heong has been in existence since 1958.  It was almost noon, and we were in an overcrowded restaurant on a sweltering day. Yet, we managed to share a table with a friendly family before moving to a smaller one for two. The cold ice-coffee was refreshing. I also found it strong, perhaps just as strong as Nam Chou's. My decision to have fried Char Koew Teow (the vegetarian version) was probably not a wise one. I did not feel like myself when the overdose of strong coffee and noodles kicked in. 

The beans used and the way the beans are roasted there contributes to the uniqueness of Ipoh coffee. Some add sugar and margarine to the roast to give it a distinct flavour. My close friend, a local Ipoh-an - Chong agreed to show me places where they roast these beans. That’s in Ipoh 2.0 and I am looking forward to it.

My grand plan of trying various coffees was short-lived due to natural body defences. After just two cups of local beverages, I surrendered to lime, ginger and barley juices to detox that day and had regularly been detoxing ever since. Again, listen to your body, it knows what’s best.