A Day Trip to Ellora Caves

A Visit to the Magnificent Kailasa Temple of Ellora

My fascination with the magnificent Kailasa Temple of Ellora began when I first saw it through Anne Stierlin's lens. Even now, I am in awe of the incredible feat achieved by the people of that era, who built these magnificent stone temples with their bare hands without modern equipment and technology. I would often find myself lost in the pages of Hindu Today, caressing the surreal printed images of Kailasa, trying to absorb its spiritual essence.

After years of longing to visit this UNESCO site, hindered by our limited vacation time and the challenges of reaching Ellora, I finally made it there. The road trip was not without its difficulties, but with the help of Sattappan Annan, who lives in Mumbai, we found a few comfortable options. The anticipation and excitement of finally setting foot in this historic site were palpable.

When my dad and I arrived at the archaeological site, the sheer size and complexity of the structure immediately struck us. The thought of exploring this vast site within a few hours was daunting, to say the least. The enormity of this place was truly awe-inspiring.

About Ellora Cave

Before my trip, I had only a basic understanding of Ellora. However, my visit was a journey of discovery, and I learned a great deal about the stunning caves. While the Kailasa temple was the pinnacle of my journey, there was more to know and understand about the stunning caves that stood solemnly before me.

Here are some of the important and fascinating facts I’d like to share, especially for first-time visitors:

1. The Ellora Caves is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the rocky regions of the Western Ghats in Maharashtra. It is approximately 300 kilometres northeast of Mumbai. 

2. This site has over a hundred caves, but only thirty-four are open to the public. It is considered one of the world's largest rock-cut Hindu temple cave complexes. 

3. Each cave is numbered, so navigating between them is rather easy. Each cave is illustrated well at its entrance. This complex includes Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain caves

• Buddhist caves (#1–12)
• Hindu caves (#13–29)
• Jain caves (#30–34)

4. These complex structures are called caves, but you will not see Stalagmites or Stalactites formed here. Instead, you’ll find multiple chambers and structures cut out of one single rock.

 

5. The overlapping construction of the caves makes it difficult to determine when each cave was built.  What is known is that the caves date back to 600–1000 CE.

 6.  Ellora’s ancient name is Elloorpuram.

 7.  Some caves' artwork is more intact than others.

The amount of time visitors spend exploring and admiring the caves varies. Visitors can take as much time as they would like, but I noticed many, especially the schoolchildren, were tired after climbing up the first few and, therefore, sped through the rest.

We would have easily gotten lost in the numerous chambers without our guide. Here are some highlights.

[Buddhist] Ellora Cave #5

This is a substantial oblong hall with massive pillars decorated with paintings. It is said that monks used it as an assembly hall and dining room. The sanctum houses the Lord Buddha guarded by two huge bodhisattvas.

 

[Buddhist] Ellora Cave #10

Cave #10 is a double-storied Buddhist cathedral cum monastery dated to the seventh century AD. The music gallery on the upper floor has a beautifully carved façade.

A flight of steps cut into the sidewall leads to the upper floors. It is believed that this music hall provided the music for the monks chanting below to Lord Buddha.

The stupa's drum is decorated with panels of Buddha and bodhisattvas, and the hall's ribbed vault creates an echo effect.

[Hindu] Ellora Cave #14

Cave #14 is known as Ravan Ki Khai. Here, visitors will see a sculpture of Ravana shaking Kailasha. The side walls depict scripture from Hindu mythology.

[Hindu] Ellora Cave #16

Cave #16—Kailasa Temple—is the largest of the 34 caves and is what drew me to Ellora decades ago. Kailasa Temple is a multileveled structure carved out of a single rock! The temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva. The picture illustrates the different levels and how stunning the temple is. 

Inside, you’ll also notice sculptures of Ganga, Yamuna, and Saraswati, the 10 avatars of Vishnu. The temple has been called the climax of the rock-cut phase of Indian architecture. 

In the photos below, note the Mandapa roof (the flat part). This is not just a roof. Below it is the central shrine dedicated to Lord Shiva. Another notable feature is the Shikhara, a Sanskrit word meaning 'mountain peak'. Shikhara is the rising tower in the Hindu temples of North India, which is a significant aspect of the Indian Hindu temple architecture.  I have also zoomed in to show the delicate artwork and skills of the masters who built Kailasa. Are you as captivated as I am? 

  

 

Below is Ravananugra.

Do you know what is special about the next picture? It shows the same monument as the one on the 20 Indian Rupee note.

 

I didn’t have comfortable walking shoes on for this trip, but nevertheless, I climbed to the top slowly, praying I wouldn’t tumble over the frictionless rocks. I had come this far, and old, worn-out footwear wouldn’t hinder me from seeing the Dravidian shikhara architecture I had been admiring for years. I am finally here, breathless!

By the way, the Kailasa Temple is notable for its vertical excavation. Carvers started at the top of the original rock and excavated downward. The beautiful structures you see right behind me were carved first. Do you see the tiny people at the bottom?  They are standing about a hundred feet away.  So, that's the height of this temple!

 

Here are some important tips to help you plan your trip to Ellora.

1. Rest up and start early to avoid motor and “people” traffic.

We were warned us about the famous Mumbai traffic, so Sathappan Annan arranged for Venkat, our driver, to pick us up at 5:00 a.m. But tiredness from the events of the day before (we had just arrived in Mumbai and attended the exciting Mumbai Puliyar Noombu event, a traditional event for Lord Ganesha, a.k.a Mr. Ganesha) meant we left at 6:00 a.m instead. Boy, oh boy, that one hour made so much of a difference. It took us almost 1.5 hours in bumper-to-bumper traffic to reach Mumbai's outskirts.

After several hours on the road, it was time to stop for a local breakfast and some coffee on the outskirts. Venkat bought us traditional poha, and we shared with him Sathappan Annan's home-prepared idly and chutney.

It took us almost seven long hours to reach Ellora. The roads were mostly bumpy, especially the last sixty kilometres. 

 

2. Train travel

We initially explored rail travel but decided it wouldn’t work for us. There is no railway station in Ellora. The nearest stations are Daulatabad Railway Station (13 kilometres away) and Aurangabad Railway Station (30 kilometres away). Visitors must take a taxi or rent a car from here.

 

3. Make hotel reservations well in advance

We had a couple of stops for this trip, so we decided to spend the night at Aurangabad, the fifth most populous city in Maharashtra, which is only 30 kilometres away from Ellora. Since we travelled during the school holiday period, hotels were getting snatched up very quickly. I was late in booking, so we ended up paying quite a bit for something that would have cost one-third otherwise.

On the bright side, the masala chai at the breakfast table offset everything else. C'est la belle vie!

 

4. Hire a guide

Without a guide, a cave is just a cave. But a good guide’s factual interpretation will restore any cave to its glory. We were grateful for our knowledgeable guide, who explained the important caves and pointed out interesting facts we would have missed.

Guides are not free but make a huge difference to your experience. I recommend getting one. The prices are fixed, so save your trouble haggling with them.

 

5. Seek assistance when needed

The Ellora complex is vast and built on an elevation. It is worth noting that the UNESCO site offers wheelchair and dolly services at the park entrance. The service is only available up to the entrances of caves 1–34. Visitors still need to climb the steps independently and navigate the chambers. Nevertheless, I would still recommend assistance for visitors who require it.

 

6. Travel light

Only small bags are allowed inside the cave complex. Visitors must deposit their large bags at the special counters at the entrance. Trust me, you wouldn’t want to carry big or heavy bags in the heat, so keep your hand carry light for a more comfortable walk around.

 

7. Stay hydrated

Bring some water with you, but there is no need to panic if you don’t have any. Water and ice cream are sold both in and outside the complex. Stay hydrated to pump up the steps.  

I was once lost in Anne Starlin's eyes. Today, I marvel at the pictures I have taken. Does a place like Ellora exist, or am I living in a dream? I wish I could travel into the past to see how they built Kailasa. Counting Stars, Reaching Delphi, I’ll forever remain humbled by Kailasa and Ellora’s greatness.  Kailasa Temple ✅✅✅!

It is not the beauty of the building you should look at; it’s the construction of the foundation that will stand the test of time. —David Allen Coe

 

A Day in and around Kanchanaburi.

Finding a Gem in the Kwai

Nestled in the west of Thailand, not too far away from Bangkok, is the famous river town of Kanchanaburi. This quiet river town is often overlooked by busy weekend city hoppers and foodies visiting the country. Still, its solemnity draws the attention of history-loving backpackers and domestic visitors.

Seeking inspiration and wisdom

When we speak of River Kwai, our thoughts immediately race to the events of WWII. The Japanese ordered the indigenous people and British prisoners of war to construct the “Railway of Death.” Many lives were lost during its construction. Two parallel bridges were built spanning the river. Only the concrete and steel bridge still stands today as a painful reminder of the atrocities during the war. The other bridge was built as a temporary wooden one and is no longer visible.

The famous bridge of Kwai

River Kwai, or Khwae No in Thai, is no stranger to Hollywood. She has been featured in numerous novels and movies, the most famous of which is the 1957 Oscar-winning movie, The Bridge over River Kwai, based on the fictional novel by Pierre Boulle. With seven Oscars under its belt, this movie is regarded as one of the greatest movies ever made. If you haven’t heard or seen it, it’s time to add it to your Friday-night viewing list. Other movies featuring the 278-kilometre river include The Deer Hunter (1978) and Russian Roulette (1975). More recently, the hugely successful Indian movie Ponniyin Selvan used Kanchanaburi as one of its two main shooting locations.

Misty morning

Before the pandemic, my mom and dad often talked about visiting Anand, my cousin’s son, who lives in Bangkok with his family. Anand had suggested they visit Kanchanaburi then. But oh dear me, I have selected hearing, and I thought he lived in Kanchanaburi. It took me four years to realise I was wrong. Recently, my dad, older sister, brother-in-law, and I made that trip without my mom, who passed on just after the pandemic.

After a few weeks of back-and-forth detailed planning with Anand in January, we were on our way to Kanchanaburi.

Getting to Kanchanaburi

Kanchanaburi is well connected by air and land. Here is how we got there:

1.  By flight. Don Muang International Airport is the closest airport to Kanchanaburi. We took a mid-morning flight from Kuala Lumpur to Bangkok (Don Muang), which took just under two hours. Kanchanaburi is approximately 120 kilometres away from the airport.

2.  By road. I found this the fastest least-hassle way to get to the river town from Don Muang airport. Before our trip, Anand had arranged for us to travel with a trusted driver, Mr. Ning.  Mr. Ning understood but did not speak much English. On the other hand, I proudly travelled to Thailand equipped with three commonly used phrases: Sawasdee kha, Khop Khun Ka, and Ah Han Jei. Nevertheless, we became good friends and understood each other in no time.

“Hey, wait here a minute.” An airport authority stopped us at the exit. She asked for our passports and tickets to confirm our identities and told us to take a seat while she verified them.

After a few minutes, the officer returned and said, “Say cheese.” She instantly pulled out her mobile phone. Click!

A few minutes later, Anand texted us a welcome message and, along with it, the welcome-to-Thailand mugshots! We were pleasantly surprised at the airport authorities’ due-diligence check. Sawasdee kha! We hopped onto our comfortable eleven-seat van.

Travellers opting for road travel can also get to Kanchanaburi by bus, taxi, or minivan (the cheapest way, but it takes longer).

3.   By train. I find trains to be the most comfortable means of travel. However, we decided not to travel by rail to reduce waiting times. The train ride takes three to four hours. Be sure to purchase tickets ahead of time.

 

Local Delicacies in Kanchanburi

When we reached Kanchanaburi, we were starving, so we decided to have a quick lunch before checking into the hotel.

There is something delicious for everyone in Thailand. The vegan diet was the best bet for us since each travel group member had different vegetarian preferences. It’s not hard at all to get good vegan or vegetarian food in Kanchanaburi. The Happy Cow app will offer you many tummy-happy vegetarian suggestions.

Papaya salad with no peanuts and chillies and mixed vegetables

We ate two meals at On's Thai Issan Vegetarian Restaurant. The restaurant also offers Thai cooking classes. We would have gladly joined those if only we had stayed longer. Instead, we just savoured the scrumptious orders of papaya salad, mixed vegetables, and hot steamed rice for this trip.

A popular restaurant in town

The popular Mango sticky rice is usually served with white glutinous rice. At On’s Thai Issan, however, they serve it with black rice. This rice, called khao niew dam in Thai, is delicious, nutritious, and full of antioxidants. It is black when uncooked but turns dark purple when cooked. I wished I stayed a few days extra to learn how they prepared this.

We ate here twice

Coconut drinks and Thai iced tea are musts in Thailand. There is also a wide choice of desserts and snacks, but since I am not a foodie, I didn’t try much or don’t have pictures of desserts to show you.

Where to Stay in Kanchanaburi

There are so many upscale and budget hotels in this town. We booked at a midrange hotel,  U Inchantree Kanchanaburi, which is just by the river, overlooking the bridge. This was the perfect place to listen to the chirpy birds and enjoy a quiet cup of coffee to welcome the day. It is a very clean and comfortable hotel with lots of walking space. The breakfast and coffee here, by the way, are fabulous.

I wish I had a garden like this

We bought a small basket offering called Chalomboon in the hotel. Inside it were fruits, rice, soup, and a drink for monks who visited on their boat in the early mornings. We didn't know we had to preorder them, but the hotel staff prepared a pack for us just in time. 

Thoughtfully packed

When the monk arrived at the hotel’s pier, he took our offerings, recited a few mantras, and offered us his blessings in return. The hotel staff on duty guided us through the rituals.

Dad and me offering Chalomboon 

Things to Do around Kanchanaburi

After receiving the monk’s blessings, we explored more of the town. Given our limited time in Kanchanaburi, we explored only some of the highlights.

Drive (or Cycle) around Town

With just a few hours to spare, Mr. Ning drove us around the town, passing by the War Cemetery, a memorial to some six thousand Allied prisoners of war, the Death Railway Museum, the JEATH War Museum, and the giant raintree.

Come on mate, get on your bike

Visit the River Kwai Bridge

One cannot leave Kanchanaburi without seeing the iconic bridge over the river. 

All are welcome here

 

Like many other visitors, we anxiously waited for the train to cross at approximately 5:30 p.m. After that, we treated ourselves to a nice cold coconut milk drink.

There's the 5.30pm. On time!

Visit a Night Market

All towns in Thailand are famous for their night markets, and we visited one here too. We indulged in local fruits at the market and bought some of the famous black rice to take home.

Kanchanaburi Skywalk

When we reached the skywalk, it was already closed. Nevertheless, it is a hugely popular place for locals to hang out and chill at night. The skywalk is a new addition to the town. It officially opened in September 2022. The Skywalk was built along the Kwae Yaï River, where the three rivers of Kanchanaburi—Mae Klong, Phachi, and Kwae Yaï—meet, offering a panoramic view of the river and the mountains nearby.

Visit Buddhist Temples

The more famous temples in Kanchanaburi include Wat Tham Suea (The Tiger Cave Temple), Tham Khao Noi (Vietnamese Pagoda), and Wat Ban Tham (Dragon's Head Cave Temple). We skipped these and decided to visit another wat on our way to Sai Yok National Park.

Is this a Nona? Es is checking her out

Visit Lord Vishnu Narai Tirumala Balaji Temple

This breathtaking Hindu temple is about an hour from Kanchanaburi town. It is in the Sai Yok district of Kanchanaburi province. The locals refer to this temple as the Buddhist Balaji Temple. Inside the temple stands a huge Balaji deity.

Narai Tirumala Balaji Temple

Visit a National Park

The most famous national parks in this district are Erawan National Park and Sai Yok National Park. Sai Yok National Park is around a hundred kilometres northwest of Kanchanaburi. The main attractions here include the Khwae Noi River and the Sai Yok Lek Waterfall.

At the foot of the falls

We went to the waterfalls at Sai Yok National Park. Anand and his family (his wife Abhi, their little twins Valli and Adhiti, and son Sentil) arrived from Bangkok to join us on the second day, which included the national park and temple visits. Over at the falls, there were moments of shall-we or shall-we-not get into the water, and alas, everyone surrendered to the call with clothes on! Seeing them resist the initial temptation was hilarious, but it all worked well. Plus, it was good that we all brought a change of clothes.

Look, the twins even meditated under the cooling flow of water.

 Excuse me, we are taking a break right now

We were at the park on a busy weekend and were not alone. Many other local families and their friends were there, and like us, they were enjoying a relaxing day off. Abhi had prepared a scrumptious lunch feast, which we enjoyed by the serene falls. 

At Sai Yok Noi National Park

 

After lunch, Natraj and I also got a good foot massage while Anand prepared hot smoked corn! 

Who wants hot roasted corn?

After satisfyingly soaking in the serenity and calmness of Kanchanaburi and eating delicious, spiced corn, it was time to head back to the bustling city of Bangkok. 

Natraj's having a go with reflexology

Grab  Some Coffee

I saw plenty of cafes and coffee shops on my way to Kanchanaburi and in the town. I wish I had space to try them, but I met my caffeine quota relatively early at the hotel.  

 

Coffee with a view

Kanchanaburi is a mysterious and hidden town, near but yet so far away from the bustling capital. Leaving behind the pain of its past, the town is a stopping point for nature and adventure seekers today. Kanchanaburi had once seen sadness and grief for the many lives lost at the river but is not letting that hinder it from drawing in more positive people and energy. It is a valuable lesson for those of us, too, who have lost loved ones near and far, and we must make the best of what we have now.

Counting Stars, Reaching Delphi. I am glad we finally visited Kanchanaburi and met our families there. It was a perfect start to the holiday season. Kanchanaburi, the gem of Kwai. 

Till we meet again, Kanchanaburi 💖