Finding a Gem in the Kwai
Nestled in the west of Thailand,
not too far away from Bangkok, is the famous river town of Kanchanaburi. This quiet
river town is often overlooked by busy weekend city hoppers and foodies
visiting the country. Still, its solemnity draws the attention of history-loving
backpackers and domestic visitors.
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| Seeking inspiration and wisdom |
When we speak of River Kwai, our thoughts immediately race to the events of WWII. The Japanese ordered the indigenous people and British prisoners of war to construct the “Railway of Death.” Many lives were lost during its construction. Two parallel bridges were built spanning the river. Only the concrete and steel bridge still stands today as a painful reminder of the atrocities during the war. The other bridge was built as a temporary wooden one and is no longer visible.
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| The famous bridge of Kwai |
River Kwai, or Khwae No in Thai,
is no stranger to Hollywood. She has been featured in numerous novels and
movies, the most famous of which is the 1957 Oscar-winning movie, The Bridge
over River Kwai, based on the fictional novel by Pierre Boulle. With seven
Oscars under its belt, this movie is regarded as one of the greatest movies
ever made. If you haven’t heard or seen it, it’s time to add it to your Friday-night
viewing list. Other movies featuring the 278-kilometre river include The
Deer Hunter (1978) and Russian Roulette (1975). More recently, the
hugely successful Indian movie Ponniyin Selvan used Kanchanaburi as one
of its two main shooting locations.
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| Misty morning |
Before the pandemic, my mom and
dad often talked about visiting Anand, my cousin’s son, who lives in Bangkok
with his family. Anand had suggested they visit Kanchanaburi then. But oh dear me,
I have selected hearing, and I thought he lived in Kanchanaburi. It took me four
years to realise I was wrong. Recently, my dad, older sister, brother-in-law,
and I made that trip without my mom, who passed on just after the pandemic.
After a few weeks of back-and-forth
detailed planning with Anand in January, we were on our way to Kanchanaburi.
Getting to Kanchanaburi
Kanchanaburi is well connected by
air and land. Here is how we got there:
1. By flight. Don Muang International Airport is the closest airport to Kanchanaburi. We took a mid-morning flight from Kuala Lumpur to Bangkok (Don Muang), which took just under two hours. Kanchanaburi is approximately 120 kilometres away from the airport.
2. By road. I found this the fastest least-hassle way to get to the river town from Don Muang airport. Before our trip, Anand had arranged for us to travel with a trusted driver, Mr. Ning. Mr. Ning understood but did not speak much English. On the other hand, I proudly travelled to Thailand equipped with three commonly used phrases: Sawasdee kha, Khop Khun Ka, and Ah Han Jei. Nevertheless, we became good friends and understood each other in no time.
“Hey, wait here a minute.” An airport authority stopped us at the exit. She asked for our passports and tickets to confirm our identities and told us to take a seat while she verified them.
After a few minutes, the officer returned and said, “Say cheese.” She instantly pulled out her mobile phone. Click!
A few minutes later, Anand texted us a welcome message and, along with it, the welcome-to-Thailand mugshots! We were pleasantly surprised at the airport authorities’ due-diligence check. Sawasdee kha! We hopped onto our comfortable eleven-seat van.
Travellers opting for road travel can also get to Kanchanaburi by bus, taxi, or minivan (the cheapest way, but it takes longer).
3. By train. I find trains to be the most comfortable means of travel. However, we decided not to travel by rail to reduce waiting times. The train ride takes three to four hours. Be sure to purchase tickets ahead of time.
Local Delicacies in Kanchanburi
When we reached Kanchanaburi, we
were starving, so we decided to have a quick lunch before checking into the
hotel.
There is something delicious for
everyone in Thailand. The vegan diet was the best bet for us since each travel
group member had different vegetarian preferences. It’s not hard at all to get
good vegan or vegetarian food in Kanchanaburi. The Happy Cow app will offer you
many tummy-happy vegetarian suggestions.
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| Papaya salad with no peanuts and chillies and mixed vegetables |
We ate two meals at On's Thai
Issan Vegetarian Restaurant. The restaurant also offers Thai cooking classes.
We would have gladly joined those if only we had stayed longer. Instead, we just
savoured the scrumptious orders of papaya salad, mixed vegetables, and hot
steamed rice for this trip.
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| A popular restaurant in town |
The popular Mango sticky rice is
usually served with white glutinous rice. At On’s Thai Issan, however, they
serve it with black rice. This rice, called khao niew dam in Thai, is
delicious, nutritious, and full of antioxidants. It is black when uncooked but
turns dark purple when cooked. I wished I stayed a few days extra to learn how
they prepared this.
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| We ate here twice |
Coconut drinks and Thai iced tea
are musts in Thailand. There is also a wide choice of desserts and snacks, but
since I am not a foodie, I didn’t try much or don’t have pictures of desserts to
show you.
Where to Stay in Kanchanaburi
There are so many upscale and
budget hotels in this town. We booked at a midrange hotel, U Inchantree Kanchanaburi, which is just by
the river, overlooking the bridge. This was the perfect place to listen to the
chirpy birds and enjoy a quiet cup of coffee to welcome the day. It is a very clean and
comfortable hotel with lots of walking space. The breakfast and coffee here, by the way, are fabulous.
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| I wish I had a garden like this |
We bought a small basket offering called Chalomboon in the hotel. Inside it were fruits, rice, soup, and a drink for monks who visited on their boat in the early mornings. We didn't know we had to preorder them, but the hotel staff prepared a pack for us just in time.
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| Thoughtfully packed |
When the monk arrived at the hotel’s pier, he took our offerings, recited a few
mantras, and offered us his blessings in return. The hotel staff on duty guided
us through the rituals.
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| Dad and me offering Chalomboon |
Things to Do around Kanchanaburi
After receiving the monk’s
blessings, we explored more of the town. Given our limited time in
Kanchanaburi, we explored only some of the highlights.
Drive (or Cycle) around Town
With just a few hours to spare, Mr. Ning drove us around the town, passing by the War Cemetery, a memorial to some six thousand Allied prisoners of war, the Death Railway Museum, the JEATH War Museum, and the giant raintree.
Come on mate, get on your bike Visit the River Kwai Bridge
One cannot leave Kanchanaburi without seeing the iconic bridge over the river.
All are welcome here
Like many other visitors, we anxiously waited for the train to cross at approximately 5:30 p.m. After that, we treated ourselves to a nice cold coconut milk drink.
There's the 5.30pm. On time! Visit a Night Market
All towns in Thailand are famous for their night markets, and we visited one here too. We indulged in local fruits at the market and bought some of the famous black rice to take home.
Kanchanaburi Skywalk
When we reached the skywalk, it was already closed. Nevertheless, it is a hugely popular place for locals to hang out and chill at night. The skywalk is a new addition to the town. It officially opened in September 2022. The Skywalk was built along the Kwae Yaï River, where the three rivers of Kanchanaburi—Mae Klong, Phachi, and Kwae Yaï—meet, offering a panoramic view of the river and the mountains nearby.
Visit Buddhist Temples
The more famous temples in Kanchanaburi include Wat Tham Suea (The Tiger Cave Temple), Tham Khao Noi (Vietnamese Pagoda), and Wat Ban Tham (Dragon's Head Cave Temple). We skipped these and decided to visit another wat on our way to Sai Yok National Park.
Is this a Nona? Es is checking her out Visit Lord Vishnu Narai Tirumala Balaji Temple
This breathtaking Hindu temple is about an hour from Kanchanaburi town. It is in the Sai Yok district of Kanchanaburi province. The locals refer to this temple as the Buddhist Balaji Temple. Inside the temple stands a huge Balaji deity.
Narai Tirumala Balaji Temple Visit a National Park
The most famous national parks in this district are Erawan National Park and Sai Yok National Park. Sai Yok National Park is around a hundred kilometres northwest of Kanchanaburi. The main attractions here include the Khwae Noi River and the Sai Yok Lek Waterfall.
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| At the foot of the falls |
We went to the waterfalls at Sai Yok National Park. Anand and his family (his wife Abhi, their little twins Valli and Adhiti, and son Sentil) arrived from Bangkok to join us on the second day, which included the national park and temple visits. Over at the falls, there were moments of shall-we or shall-we-not get into the water, and alas, everyone surrendered to the call with clothes on! Seeing them resist the initial temptation was hilarious, but it all worked well. Plus, it was good that we all brought a change of clothes.
Look, the twins even meditated under the cooling flow of water.
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| Excuse me, we are taking a break right now |
We were at the park on a busy weekend and were not alone. Many other local families and their friends were there, and like us, they were enjoying a relaxing day off. Abhi had prepared a scrumptious lunch feast, which we enjoyed by the serene falls.
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| At Sai Yok Noi National Park |
After lunch, Natraj and I also got a good foot massage while Anand prepared hot smoked corn!
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| Who wants hot roasted corn? |
After satisfyingly soaking in the serenity and calmness of Kanchanaburi and eating delicious, spiced corn, it was time to head back to the bustling city of Bangkok.
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| Natraj's having a go with reflexology |
Grab Some Coffee
I saw plenty of cafes and coffee shops on my way to Kanchanaburi and in the town. I wish I had space to try them, but I met my caffeine quota relatively early at the hotel.
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| Coffee with a view |
Kanchanaburi is a mysterious and hidden town, near but yet so far away from the bustling capital. Leaving behind the pain of its past, the town is a stopping point for nature and adventure seekers today. Kanchanaburi had once seen sadness and grief for the many lives lost at the river but is not letting that hinder it from drawing in more positive people and energy. It is a valuable lesson for those of us, too, who have lost loved ones near and far, and we must make the best of what we have now.
Counting Stars, Reaching
Delphi. I am glad we finally visited Kanchanaburi and met our families there.
It was a perfect start to the holiday season. Kanchanaburi, the gem of Kwai.
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| Till we meet again, Kanchanaburi 💖 |