A travel and coffee trail: Counting stars and seeing places with ReachingDelphi.
Each sunrise and sunset, each journey & every face along the way is a blessing; inspirations for today and a hope for tomorrow.
Madya Pradesh is the second largest state in
India. Given its size, travellers visiting Madya Pradesh will not be
disappointed with the various travel sights and scenes this state offers. And,
if you are as ambitious as I am and hope to visit every place, you’d probably
get frantic seeing the long list of national parks, sanctuaries, falls and
temples here. The reality, however, is vacation time and budgets are limited.
Therefore, here are a few essential travel reminders. You are not one of those
robot vacuum cleaners auto set to cover every square meter of land. Try to stay
focused, be wise, and stay calm.
Canyons of India, Raneh Falls
You could, just as we did, begin by exploring
the beautifully carved medieval temples and forts and then move on to venture
the secluded, scenic areas. To read up more on the temples, click here.
There are around 10 waterfalls listed in Madya
Pradesh. Pandav Falls, Bahuti Falls, and Dhuandhar Falls, are just three of
them. In this post, we will explore only one. Actually, in my opinion, this is
the most colourful of them all. 😊
We decided to visit Raneh Falls as an
alternative trip when we learnt that the Panna National Park was fully booked
due to the peak season. I was really looking forward to meeting a real tiger in
person at Panna. Nevertheless, it was a good thing that Anjul (the friendly and
helpful owner from our hotel) quickly recommended and organised this trip for
us at the last minute.
Around the Falls
Raneh Falls is a natural waterfall located in
Chhatarpur district in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh. It is formed by the
Ken River, one of the major rivers that flow through Pradesh and Uttar Pradesh.
Ken River covers a distance of 427-kilometres before joining the Yamuna. It is a hidden sanctuary that should not be missed.
The car ride from Khajuraho, where we were
staying, to the falls is about 30 minutes. The trip is a comfortable one on
good roads. We had the opportunity to see a couple of local villages along the
way.
Just as at most parks, there is an entrance
fee. The cost depends on the vehicle type used to get to the falls. Most people
arrive here either by cars, minivans, buses or auto rickshaws. Hiking or
trekking on your own is not permitted at these falls. All visitors must be
accompanied by a licensed guide. A guide is assigned to each vehicle at the
entrance. The fee (minimal) for the guide is collected at the entry by the
park. The same car we came by was used inside to get to the falls and the
animal sanctuary.
The falls form during the monsoon season
(July–September). This is when the Ken River starts to fill up. I was told that
the Raneh Falls would be closed during the monsoon months and would re-open
after the monsoons.
The Raneh Falls are somewhat unique. The Ken River that flows there forms a five-kilometre-long and 30-meter-deep canyon. After the rainy season (monsoon), visitors can see a series of waterfalls here. According to our guide, we would be able to see at least four spectacular waterfalls from right here. the energy flow generated at this fall is similar to that of the Niagara Falls. I hope I am not the only one visualising Superman at this point. 😉
Rock formation at Raneh Falls
Our guide also told us, sadly, that in 2004,
the rainfall was so significant that the rivers overflowed and destroyed many
villages and sanctuaries nearby. Unfortunately, I do not have photos of the
active falls itself to show you today (please google these images if you wish
to see some).
We visited the falls during the winter months,
and by then there were no waterfalls. But we were not disappointed. Now, because
the falls had dried up, we could see the volcanic rock wall formations very
clearly in the same area.
Reminds me of the Great Canyons
I felt like I was at the Great Grand Canyon.
Though I didn’t get a chance to see the falls today, I know for sure having the
opportunity to witness two breath-taking views at the same location would
indeed be a blessing. So, dear guides and those who work here, you are very lucky
indeed!
According to our guide, the rocks here are rich
in granite and dolomite. I learnt there are five different rocks that influence the colours you see here —dolomite (green), Jasper (red), brown quartz, pink granite,
and black basalt.
Mineral rich rocks
The Ghariyal Sanctuary is within the falls.
Here you can see many animals of the forest, including monkeys, deer, jackals, crocodiles, blackbirds, and antelopes. The animals we saw looked so
comfortable. I don’t think they like us visitors.
Deer sighting
The sanctuary was very serene and quiet during
our visit. There was just one other group of tourists when we arrived. They
left soon after.
Search in progress
Hello there monkeys!
Yo yo Monkeys!
We spotted a crocodile camouflaged by the rocks. Do you see it?
Look again
Here is a closeup shot.
Alright, there you are!
We would have loved to have spent more time under the shady trees and looking out for more crocodiles and migrating birds, but we had to move on. Being accompanied by a licensed guide ensured that curious visitors (like me) would not stray onto unsafe paths. This meant no picnicking or staying under shady trees for long. But, if you need to get a drink, both hot and cold beverages are sold at the little souvenir shop at the entrance. Oh yes, before I forget, no camping or stargazing is permitted here.
The Ken and surroundings
The visit to both Raneh Falls and Ghariyal Sanctuary can be easily completed within 2 hours.
Migrating Siberians
My cuppa for today’s post is one
taken at Khajuraho, a town near Raneh Falls. To read more on this tea, visit the post on Khajuraho here.
Before this trip, I was slightly
disappointed for having to miss out an opportunity to get face-to-face with
Indian tigers in the Panna National Park. But, in a way, I am happy Panna
National Park was overbooked. Otherwise, I would have missed out on knowing the
Grand Canyons of Asia.
Enjoy your cuppa under the bright
blue skies and humbling silence of the Raneh rocks. Counting Stars, ReachingDelphi. References: 1 - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Raneh_Falls 2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Category:Waterfalls_of_Madhya_Pradesh
Transport Back in Time to the Medieval Town of Khajuraho
Sarah Parcak said, ‘In archaeology, context is
everything. Objects allow us to reconstruct the past. Taking artefacts from a
temple or a private house is like emptying out a time capsule’.
This was how I felt the first time I saw the
sandstone temples of Khajuraho. I felt like I had stepped into a different
time. I asked myself so many questions, tried to reconstruct the lives of
people from the past. I kept going back with more questions and assumptions for
things I knew nothing about.Iheard the same questions echoed by other
travellers. I was not alone—we were not alone. What went on in the minds of
people back then?
Emptying out the time capsule of Khajuraho
I must once again thank Hindu India and author Henri Stierlin for luring me to Madya
Pradesh, a state in central India. Stierlin’s technical description of the
temples of Khajuraho (in Madya Pradesh) is fascinating indeed.
Madya Pradesh is the second-largest state in
India, with a population over 75 million people. It is landlocked and borders
six other states. Bhopal is its capital. Would you believe it if I told you
there are 12 operational airports in Madya Pradesh? Yes, that’s right!And to add on, two of these airports service
the international routes.
Where is Khajuraho?
Khajuraho is a small town in Madhya Pradesh. It is known for its beautiful rock carved temples of the Chandella dynasty. According to Stierlin, the Khajuraho empire extended from Gwalior in the west to Baneres in the east. All the sculptures are of perfect Nagara style, and 90% of them represent the daily life of the people of Madya Pradesh. The other 10% of sculptures are erotic. In Khajuraho, we can visit tastefully carved Jain temples. Both the Hindu and Jain temples of Khajuraho have been declared as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Khajuraho today
How do you get to Khajuraho?
To be honest, it took us more time to decide how to get to Khajuraho than to actually get here. Though visitors can get here by road or rail, we chose to fly in.
Tea with friends before the flight
The flight we took stopped at several other cities before reaching Khajuraho. During the airport-hopping process, we missed an early service connection. Allow me to clarify myself at this point—this was not our fault at all, the flight took off earlier than scheduled. After failed negotiations with the airlines, we spent more money and time for last minute rebooking. Soon we were on our way again, and this time we made it! What, we thought would be a hassle-free and quick option turned out to be a rather expensive one.
Look, I was on time!
When is the best time to visit Khajuraho?
Overall, Madya Pradesh has a subtropical climate. Summer (April to June) is extremely hot. The monsoon season (July to September) brings heavy rains to this area. The best time to visit is during the winter months (October to March). Bring warm clothes because it does get cold (but not Siberian winter cold, luckily). Most hotels do not provide external heaters unless requested.
Where do you stay in
Khajuraho?
Well, there are many hotel options available
in Khajuraho for travellers with different preferences and budgets. Though
Khajuraho is a small town, there are plenty of hotels and, I am pretty sure
that even during the peak of the peak, everyone will have a place to camp. In
Khajuraho, there are the high-end, medium range, and budget hotels. My choice,
as you know by now,is to go for
something with a local flare and maximum hospitality. We found a few here!
Since there weren’t rooms for consecutive nights at the same hotel,we made bookings at two different
places.You may think this would have
been a hassle, but actually, it turned out to be an incredibly pleasant
experience and an opportunity to get to know and to be with the local
Khajurahoans.
Our first stay was at Harmony Hotel, a
family-run boutique hotel. Harmony is
a beautiful tourist-class hotel with top-notch hospitality and all the
essentials we needed. It is very centrally located, near the western group of
temples, restaurants, and shops. The restaurant here serves good, hearty meals
throughout the day. We had breakfast and dinners here.If you wish to try something else, you could
try the food at Guru Kripa (next door) and Madras Coffee House (200 meters
away). Both serve excellent vegetarian food.
Around Harmony Hotel
Ramayana, our second hotel for the stay, was a small but new
tourist-class hotel a little away from Harmony. It is also family run. Anjul Singh was the amiable and
helpful owner who started communicating with me soon after I made the
reservation. He recommended some famous places of interest to visit and offered
to organise the trips. We took his offer for one.We didn’t get a chance to meet him or his
wife in person, as they were both were on the road with another tour group. We
were fortunate, though, to meet the rest of his family, including his father,
mother, brothers, and cousins who live nearby.
Come as a friend, go as a family, Ramayana Hotel
I was told that Anjul runs a school for young children close by to the hotel. His brother showed me around that school. Though I took a few photos around, I am just putting up the one taken outside the school compound during break.
Break time
I liked Ramayana’s slogan. It is very inviting indeed. 'Come as a friend, go as a family’.The staff at
Ramayana (Anjul, Satyam, Hirdesh, and the gang)go out of the way to make the guests’ stay comfortable.I left knowing that we could always return.
With the Ramayana Team
How do you get around
Khajuraho?
There
are plenty of travel options available. Travellers could opt to rent a taxi,
hail a motorbike, or take an auto-rickshaw.
Just outside the Harmony Hotel, we met Mubarak,
who instantly became our friend, local guide, and auto-driver for the rest of
our trip.
The pictures below are of us with his family.
We definitely needed that hot drink and some heat to warm up our numb hands.
Another cold day in Khajuraho
Mubarak is well-learned, speaks both English
and Hindi, and is a Madya Pradesh native. Trust me, he knows every turn in
Khajuraho. He used to be a driver before, he told us,but he doesn’t do so anymore because of his
recent leg pains.We were so lucky to
have met such a pleasant driver like him.
Do look out for Mubarak when you are there. You
would need a bright person like him to take you back safely when you get dazed
trying to absorb the overwhelming facts about these Chandella-structures.
Where do you get the
best chai in Khajuraho?
After checking in on the first day at Harmony, I took a short walk to explore the surrounding area. What I found a few steps away made me tremendously happy and kept me beaming for days. A tea and coffee stall! Meet Milan Soni, the owner. He makes the best ginger tea in town. Adrak ki chai. Just see the amount of fresh ginger (adrak) he adds to each pot of tea. Milan is a native Khajurahoan and told us he started making tea at this exact location back in the nineties. Do you see the little shed at his back? That was the original spot then.
Milan making us a pot
Milan also told me that, back then, Khajuraho was just a small temple village in a forestry area. The buildings you see around here today did not exist then. There were mostly trees and plants. Over the past 25 years, this village has grown into the town we see today. And here below, I am enjoying that hot cuppa.
Having Ginger Chai
Notice the wall to Milan’s right? That is the Wall of Welfare sponsored by the Lions Club. Anyone can place any piece of reusable clothing or small items (like bags) on the hooks provided. Those who need them can pick them up freely. What I admired was that there was no abuse to this generosity. Each time I came for a hot glass of tea, I observed that the items placed at the wall days earlier remained on the hooks for the rightful recipient to claim.
That is the WOW
What can you do and
visit in Khajuraho?
There are at least three MUST-DO’s.
1.Visit the Medieval temples.
The Chandella kings built these
ancient temples between 950 and 1100.Since there is plenty of historical information available of these
temples, I will highlight just a few points on them.For more details on the temples, do visit
Wikipedia or refer to Henri Stierlin’s work.
After the 1250s, the Chandella’s
left this region to fight wars in the north. In the late 11th century, several
other empires ruled northern India, and the glory of Khajuraho was overshadowed
by conflicts and other new structures. With that, the popularity and population
of Khajuraho diminished. Over the decades, wild jungles grew and covered
Khajuraho, and the temples become isolated and hidden. In 1838, during a visit
to Central India, a British Indian Army captain named T.S. Burt rediscovered
these temples. He was amazed by the intricate details of the temples and that
these monuments remained intact for so long.Stierlin refers to these temples as masterpieces of medieval Hindu
architecture.
Sun set over the Western Group of Temples
The genius architect who designed
these remarkable temples remain anonymous.
The inscriptions found on the temple
walls are original and state facts about the rulers and the period when the
temples were built. Today, of the 87 temples built by the Chandella kings, 22
of them survive to show us the glory of the remarkable past.
Original inscriptions
The Western Group of Khajuraho Temples
This is the most beautiful group of
temples. Almost 80% of the temples are in their original form.
Matangeswara Temple
We were told to visit this temple
first before visiting any other. Matangeswar Temple is dedicated to Siva. Once
in, I noticed a 2.5-meter tall Linga statue. There is no entrance fee to get
inside. Outside the temple, there were a few yogi’s meditating and chanting
mantras.
First temple to visit
Lakshmana Temple
This would be the first temple that
we would notice after clearing entry validation. Lakshmana Temple represents the once
flourishing Chandella capital. The temple was consecrated in 954 by King
Dhanga, and a local guide told me the sculptures in this temple are 90% in
their original form. It is considered
one of the most magnificent temples in the state.
Magnificent Lakshmana Temple
Within the Lakshmana Temple
compound, there are several smaller temples, halls (a vestibule and
dance/meeting hall), and a sanctum.
All around the temple, I noticed
beautiful sculptures depicting everyday work life and carvings of elephants.
How did they carve these so perfectly?
Kandariya Mahadeva Temple
Just like at the Lakshmana Temple,
you will find smaller temples around Kandariya Mahadeva.The building plan for the Lakshmana and
Kandariya Mahadeva temples were the same.Kandariya is the largest and most exquisite of all the temples in
Khajuraho. The surging spires and sculptures that form the temple and are 80%
in their original form.
A stunner indeed.
Stierlin stated, ‘Kandariya Mahadeva
is the most exquisite of temples here, and in it the development of central
Indian architecture reached a peak of perfection’.I agree — it is stunning!
You take my breath away!
You will also note each temple has
towers. Each tower rises towards a disk where the Kalasha urn sits. This is one
of the concepts of Nagara architecture.
There are places within the compound where you sit to pause in between or to have a a hot or cold drink.
Time to rest after all that walk
Chitragupta Temple
This temple is dedicated to Surya.
Surya in Sanskrit means ‘sun’.The
temple was constructed around 1000.
Elegance, harmony, grace, all in one deal
Vishwanath Temple
This beautiful temple here is the Vishwanath Temple.
Just where do I begin?
Vishwanath Temple was built in the
same style as Kandariya Mahadeva Temple, before 1002. Inscriptions found at
the porch of the temple suggests that the temple housed two Linga statues—one in emerald and the other in stone.
sophistication made simple
Nandi Temple This temple faces Vishwanth Temple. It is dedicated to Nandi, the bull which serves as the mount of Shiva.
A classical sight - elephant at the entrance
Varaha Temple
Varaha Temple faces the Lakshmana
Temple. This temple is noted for its famous boar statue. The 1.7-meter-high
Varaha was built on sandstone, and the entire body of the Varaha is delicately
carved with figurines.
Tall Boar Statue at Varaha Temple
Parvati Temple
This is a temple dedicated to
Parvati and has been heavily restored in recent years.
Parvati Temple, charming
Chaunsat Yogini Temple
This is one of the earliest temples
in this region. With its primitive structure, it is the only granite temple
complex in the area.
The Eastern Group of Khajuraho Temples
Next, after another glass of strong, hot ginger tea to beat the cold, Mubarak took us to see the eastern group of temples. The
Eastern Group of Temples were also beautiful but were much smaller in size. The
carvings were also less intricate than the ones we saw the day before. The
eastern temples we saw included:
Vamana Temple
Vamana Temple was built between 1050
and 1075 and is dedicated to Vamana, an incarnation of Vishnu.
Fine work
From this temple
grounds, we could see the old village of Khajuraho.
Village life
Javari Temple
Javari Temple was built between 1075
and 1100 and is also dedicated to Vishnu.
Simply grand
Chatubhuja Temple
The locals call this temple
‘Jatakari’ because it is located in the Jatakari Village. Though Chatubhuja is
grouped as part of the eastern group of temples in the tourist maps, some
online publications classify it as a southern temple.I am not sure why this is so.
Chatubhuja Temple
Duladeo Temple
Duladeo Temple is dedicated to Lord
Shiva. We reached the temples just after sunset, and at that time the
visibility inside the temple was rather low. The thoughtful guard on duty
pointed me to the Linga of the temple. Duladeo is noted to be one of the last
temples built by the Chandella kings. The figurines carved in Duladeo are said
to have soft, expressive features, but it was too dark for me to notice.
Duladeo Temple, glows even after sunset
The South Group of Khajuraho
Temples
There are a couple of Jain temples
in this group. Just like the Hindu temples of Khajuraho, the Jain temples too
were built in the Nagara style. During the Chandella dynasty, the Jain
community and religion flourished. We visited the Parshvanath, Adinath and Shantinath
Temples, and the Jain museum is right next to them.
Jain Temples - Parshvanath, Adinath and Shantinath
2.Folk Dance Show.
This is a very colourful and lively
one-hour performance by the talented local dancers. The show is organised daily
by the Madya Pradesh Tourism Board to promote the state’s culture. Shows are on
every night during travel season.
Talented dancers of Madya Pradesh
Here is a video clip of the performance.
See this chap marked below. He is Hirdesh,
one of the talented performers from the show. He graduated college, and like
many others I came to know in Madya Pradesh, Hirdesh has two jobs to support his
family and education. During the day, he works at Ramayana.What coincidence to have met a local
celebrity at my hotel!
A friend at the folk dance performance
3. Sound and Light
Show.
This is a beautiful heart-warming
display of music and lights at the western group of temples. The show is an
hour long under the stars. There are two shows daily, the first in English and
the second in Hindi. During this show, I learned more about these temples and
the glory of Chandella kings. If you are here during the winter months,
remember to dress warmly to beat the cold.
Colddddddd ...
Here’s my main takeaway from this trip.
Building the temples of Khajuraho was funded by the great kings of Chandella.
But, it was the people of Madya Pradesh (Khajuraho) who put their heart and
soul into sculpting solid rock, day and night, to form magnificent and delicate
pieces of art, culture, and pride.The
kings recognised the effort of the people and rewarded the people with gold. As
a result, the state of Madya Pradesh and the people prospered there during the
Chandella reign. Centuries later, though the reward of gold is no longer there,
the gold in the hearts of local people continues to shine on through the
generations. The beautiful temples and the town of Khajuraho are reminders that
the unity and passion of people enable the realisation of great ideas.
See you again Khajuraho
I also must admit I knew very little about
Madya Pradesh before this trip. Today, my quest for knowledge about and fondness
for this fascinating state, the charismatic town of Khajuraho, and its
ever-inviting people has grown exponentially. The people I met here have led
ReachingDelphi and me onto another mystical path that’s yet to be explored.
Enjoy your cuppa. Enjoy your coffee and ginger
chai.Enjoy these moments.They are timeless. Counting Stars,
ReachingDelphi.
References: 1 - Hindu India: From Khajuraho to the Temple City of Madurai (World Architecture S.) - by Henri Stierlin 2. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Madhya_Pradesh 3. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_airports_in_Madhya_Pradesh 4. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Khajuraho_Group_of_Monuments 5. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varaha_Temple,_Khajuraho
