[Goa] Find me a beach - A Miramar Beach plan


For sun, sand, and sea lovers, there is grand paradise: Goa! As the Goa tourism board says, ‘Go Goa – A Perfect Holiday Destination.’  You will find out why in the next few blog posts on ReachingDelphi.

Goa has a fantastic 101km long coastline with plenty of soft cocoa-sandy beaches. Located in the Konkan region of West India, these beaches are distinguished as being on either the north or south shore with respect to their location from the city of Vasco da Gama. 

Beaches in the north include Querim, Mandrem, Candolim, Miramar and Dona Paula.  In the south, you will find more secluded ones like Bogmalo, Colva and Palolem.


Away from Miramar Beach


The beaches on both ends are lovely. The coastal areas to the north of Vasco da Gama are more developed for tourists and have more travel, accommodations and dining options for all budget ranges compared to the south. The south is less developed and a tad pricier.  However, the beaches tend to get more private and isolated as you go further north or south.   While these further-away beaches are just as stunning, you’ll spend a lot of time and money to get to the centre of the action.  Since I need to hear everyday noise, see friendly people, and feel the daily chaos, obviously I prefer the less secluded ones.


one-to-one time

If you are staying in the busier and bustling Panjim, the capital of Goa, your nearest escape to the Arabian Sea is Miramar Beach.  Miramar was known initially as Porta de Gaspar Dias among the Portuguese.  From there on the shore, you can notice the confluence of the Mandovi River and the Arabian Sea.
Plenty of room for all

I have covered more of the picturesque Panjim in my blog post here, but for now, let’s explore the Miramar Beach.

What shall we do at Miramar Beach?
  • Capture a glorious sunset. My top pick here is to see the amazing sunset over the Arabian Sea. Come a little earlier, find a shady spot, relax and wait. It’s worth every second.

Glorious!
  • Enjoy swimming and water activities. Yes, this is a safe spot to swim. There are coast guards here watching and directing the swimmers accordingly.
  • Do sporting activities. I noted groups and individuals exercising, doing yoga stretches and engaged in frisbee matches. Look at this guy below, he surely is enjoying the sun while his friends plan out the game strategy.

I am happy where I am


  • Visit the Mahalakshmi Mandir. This is a lovely Hindu temple across the street where the beach is. 
  • Have a snack. There are plenty of food vendors 100 meters away from the beach. These food operators are open for business in the evenings. They mainly sell chaats, fruits and drinks. The aroma of the freshly prepared pav bhajis is very inviting. Try it if your stomach is tough and if you can handle the mix of spices.
  • Clock those steps as you take a long stroll along the beautiful firm shore. Find the confluence of the Mandovi River and the Arabian Sea. 

The Confluence



  • If you up for more challenge, you could take a brisk walk north to the Dona Paula view point. Dona Paula is the place where the Zuari and Mandovi rivers meet the Arabian Sea. 

The story of two rivers and a sea
  • Make a new friend. Here is someone I met. 

Hello, show me your faces
  • Have a cuppa. Naturally. 😊 This is ReachingDelphi, and the quest is to have that nice cuppa en route to Delphi. We are close by.

Reach for the Stars



Blogposts on India  from the Coffee Archives:
Panjim - [Goa] Panjim: An Ultimate Guide.
Nashik - Yin & Yan Amongst the Letters of Krishna, Godavari, Dolphins and Santas.
Tiruchi - She Glitters the flow, She Does. Cauvery!
Kovalam - Think twice, its another day, another year in Kovalam
KanyaKumari - A Poet, A Monk and the Rock-Star!!!
Thiruchendur - Dance to beat of the rain

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[Goa] Panjim: An Ultimate Guide.

Top four must-do's activities in Panjim, Goa

India + Stretches of Long Sandy Beaches + Historic Sites + Freshly Brewed Coffee) = Goa!

Yes, it's Goa alright. Today, ReachingDelphi takes you to another coffee drinking city, Panaji, which is the state’s capital.  Panaji is also referred to as Panjim or Nova Gova in Portuguese. The Portuguese ruled Goa for 450 years; Goa was surrendered back to India in 1961.

Sunset over the Mandovi

Goa is in central-west India. It is divided into two districts – the north and south. Panaji lies in the north district. There are frequent flights, trains and bus services between the Goan towns and other major cities in India.  Panaji is 30km away from its main airport, Vasco da Gama. 
 



The fastest way to get to Panaji from the airport is by prepaid taxi services. And no, there is no Ola and Grab coverage here as of today. I've already looked into this. 😉 

Just as in many other elevated and coastal places, the roads here too are generally narrow, so it takes a little longer to cover the driving distance. The 30km ride to Panaji will take approximately one hour from the airport. Do be very cautious when booking your hotel in Goa. At first, I wrongly made a paid reservation at a hotel which was a two-hour drive from the airport. The late-night ride to that remote but serene resort, was not the sort of adventure I had in mind. That turned out to be a very costly lesson for me. Hence, we decided to relocate to more central location the next day.

Mandovi and Arabian before they merge

To many, Goa is a place where beach lovers come to enjoy the hippie life. I find there is more to Goa than just the long stretch of coastline, famous beaches and smoking. There is a wealth of history in its past and, the good news is that it is right here, waiting for us to explore its richness leisurely.   

Panaji essentials. My stay was short but packed. Though I only have four tips in this edition, trust me, it will take you a while to complete all of them.

1.    Explore Fontainhas.

If your interest is to explore the rich history of Goa, then Fontainhas is your starting point. 
'Wait, Mr Postman look and see if there's a letter in your bag for me' :) 

Fontainhas is the old Latin quarter of Goa. Over here, you can see and feel the strong Portuguese influence that envelopes this charming town.
Charming

I enjoy exploring cities on foot and I was lucky to have met a companion in Goa. Carlos, the thoughtful owner of the second hotel where I stayed in lent me an excellent guide, ‘Cholta Cholta - Sketches of Panjim’. The book provides many walk-route suggestions. I started my exploration with the second suggested walk-route, but 20 meters down the alley, my feet led me onto a different path. In the end, I realised I must have combined three or more different routes. I did it my way. The guide is handy to understand the significance of each heritage-building and notable landmark along the way. 
 
Exploration continues

When exploring the area, take your time to see, hear and feel the traces of Portuguese significance in the buildings, colours, street signs, narrow streets and from the chimes of church bells and, how this had influenced the everyday lives of the local Goans.
 
Route 66 in Goa too. Nice!
I completed my walk just in time for breakfast. I was back at the Caravela Café. Artisan coffee is a must-try item here. According to Carlos, there are seven coffee variants at the cafe. We tried the Maher. Yahan bahut acha coffee hai. Good coffee, do try it!
 
Ready to explore, 2nd round!
2.    Explore Old Goa.
Old Goa is an ancient city and, a must-visit place in Goa. The town was constructed in the 15th century. It had once served as the capital of Goa. Today, Old Goa is listed as a UNESCO heritage site. Some refer to this area as Velha Goa. Velha Goa is not too far from Panaji, just 10km away. The best way to get here is by taxi. One of the most famous landmarks in Old Goa is the 16th-century Basilica of Bom Jesus where the relics of Saint Francis Xavier are kept. The Basilica is not only one of the oldest in Goa but also in India.
 

And how do you stand the test of time?


3.    Evening cruise on the Mandovi.

There are many cruise operators in Panjim, and most cruises operate throughout the day.  The more popular ones are the evening and sunset cruises.  These are anywhere between an hour to two-hour long trips. Now, this is a great place to enjoy the breeze, meet locals and practice some Hindi or Konkan.
 
Simply amazing
4.    Visit Miramar Beach
The nearest escape to the Arabian Sea in Panjim is Miramar Beach. Miramar was known initially as Porta de Gaspar Dias by the Portuguese. Since this is the closest beach to the city, it does attract many visitors living in the city. What I found interesting here was the number of sporting activities on the beach. It’s incredible to see so much attention given to being fit and engaging in positive influences. Do come anytime in the evening, grab your shady spot, take a dip, come out, sip a refreshing drink and wait for the sun to set. Perfect! 
Worth every second! Noticed the reflection of the contrail?

Shuffle the sequence, replay the next day.  ReachingDelphi, reaching for the stars. 😊
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Thailand ....Ayutthaya Classics...a Toast to the Zesty and Vibrant Chao Phraya....Interlude number 3


Imagine this. You are in Thailand, and you only have one free day to spend in the surrounding areas of greater Bangkok. What do you do and where do you go?  You are right to note that Bangkok is one of the greatest and trendiest cities in South East Asia and, that there is so much to see and do in the capital itself. The next question that comes to your mind would be 'why see outer Bangkok then?' Simple, you have come so far and I wouldn't want to see you miss out on seeing the beauty of the next place I am taking you to @ReachingDelphi.

One of the many temple ruins
One day, is all we have right now. Firstly, stay calm. Do a Zen-check.  To make this a memorable visit -  you need to know where you want to go, be active (walk, cycle, stay awake, etc.) for long hours, brave the heat and, to keep those grey cells charged all the time. Take a deep breath. Count those Stars, a Delphi is calling ……

Where do I start?
One of my favourite destinations near Bangkok is Ayutthaya.  Ayutthaya is located approximately 80 KM north of Bangkok. Getting to Ayutthaya is relatively easy and can be very exciting.


Finding My Buddha at Wat Yai Chai Mang Khon
So, how do you get to Ayutthaya from Bangkok if you have a tight budget? There are plenty of options but whichever mode you decide on, start the day early so that you'd have more time to spend at ancient city. Three of the common ways include:

Ruins of the temple

  • Rail – We landed in Don Muang Airport and we decided to take a train from here. This is a medium paced, comfortable and cheap one-hour ride. The service is regular by my expectation. There are also trains services from the Suvarnabhumi Airport area. During the trip, don't forget to test for responses as you greet sawadika to the locals and gauge the distance your kop khun kaps take you.
  • Road – You could also jump onto the next bus, share a minivan ride or hop onto a taxi. Do agree on the price and know the travel duration before boarding. 😉
  • Boat tours from Bangkok – if you have slightly more time and budget, this would also be an exciting way to get to and explore the ancient city. 
Buddha statues at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon

Regardless of your travel type – a stopover between two cities, on a strenuous business trip, a romantic get-away, seeking a hideout, or a casual traveller to the region, you will find that exploring Ayutthaya is easy as it displays the rich history of its tangerine-set landscape very openly.

I am right here

And why Ayutthaya? We are here today to see and feel for ourselves the serenity of the ruins where a great Siamese kingdom once stood.  The Ayutthaya Kingdom ruled between 1351 and 1767. It was the second capital of Siam. Ayutthaya is also known as Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya. The Burmese invaded the city of Ayutthaya in 1767 and burnt it down. Today this area, where the temples and ruins stand, makes up the Ayutthaya Historical Park. The park is situated in the centre of Ayutthaya and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  Some of these temples have been restored while restoration is still in progress for many more. We were informed that the heads of the Buddhas statues were stolen from most temples during the invasion. Today, as part of the restoration, new ones have been placed. As you walk along, observe  and spend more time at the park, you will realise that each Wat (temple) is different in structure. These unique ruins are very well preserved.

The grand Wat Chaiwatthanaram

So, you have reached Ayutthaya by train. Now what?  You are now left with another important decision - how do you explore this city? Do you want to be adventurous? You could opt for the tuk-tuk way, as we did.

Chao Phraya River front

A tuk-tuk is a local taxi in Thailand. Every region in Thailand has these. Here are some tuk-tuk essentials before you start your Indiana Jones exploration.
Wat Chaiwatthanaram, simply magnificiant, and those steps..

  • Tuk-tuks are usually operated by the individual drivers. After a few phases of can-cans and same-same-s, your deal is sealed. You are now the captain in your taxi and assumably know where you are heading to next.
    • The Test of Time.
  • There are plenty of ruins, palaces and temples at the park. Frankly, one day is not sufficient, but your tuk-tuk driver will offer you a menu of choices and places you can cover within your limited time constraint. Our tuk-tuk driver suggested several spellbinding temples to visit, we went with her expert suggestions and, we were not disappointed at all. Though some temples were more exciting than others, all are worth the time for its history. Again, remember to negotiate a comfortable price. Since I didn't know how to handle a motorbike or ride a bicycle steadily, I found the tuk-tuk  being the cheapest and the most flexible option for my travel group.
  • Wear a big smile always, even when you have had your head bumped onto the ceiling several times during the ride. It is not the drivers fault if you want to see all the temples before sunset, or is it? 😊
  • Hungry–  Here is a handy Thai phrase when travelling in this country. Keep it safe. ‘Aa-han Jey'.  It means vegetarian food. Our tuk-tuk driver took us to a local Jey (vegetarian) shop in a residential neighbourhood on the outskirts. The food was just a few Bahts for plenty of delicious variety. Since there are lots of shops, stalls and restaurants around, you don't really have to carry along too much emergency supply. If you get a chance, do try some local spicy papaya or mango salad.
  • Thirsty?  Stay hydrated - Make frequent stops. There are lots of cold iced-coffee and juice stalls along the way. While in Thailand, opt for fresh tropical fruit juices like pineapple, mangoes and coconut. 
Find a spot to meditate, maybe behind that door?
  • Take short breaks in between temples to absorb in and digest the events behind this great civilisation. Have more extended stops if you are travelling with young children. Again, you have control over time.

    Ohhh My Buddha!
  • Some of the ruins and temple areas have relaxing and shady places where one can meditate or do some soul-searching. 
Wat Mahathat
  • If you do not have a reference book on the national park or have not read up on Ayutthaya, engage a guide who speaks the same language you do for a couple of hours. You can do this at the park itself. It is indeed a bonus-deal if your tuk-tuk driver is also your guide. 
To Sir with Love. Duty. 

If your feet are tired and you have decided that one day is not enough, stay a night here. There are plenty of safe, clean, low-medium priced accommodation if fancy is not the criteria. There are also quite a few higher-end hotel options in the neighbourhood.

Our Tuk Tuk ride. This trip was made years ago but it feels like I had just visited today.

My coffee image is one from a familiar surrounding. The bright orange cup reminds me of the red-and-yellow sunlit ruins of the grand Ayutthaya. The coffee cup and the coffee are both as hopeful as the Mississippi which I talked about in 2017.  (https://www.reachingdelphi.com/2017/03/get-your-mississippi.html). If I were to give this a name, it would be the Chao Phraya because it looks zesty-vibrant yet so at peace with itself, just as the Chao Phraya River front in this blogpost.  Many of us have set out a new sail recently. May the Chao Phraya help us all find the Zen we are looking in this journey.

Zen, IOT :) 

Search and reach for those stars. Reach for Delphi. The Zen and the answers you are looking for are not too far away. Enjoy your cuppa.


More Blogposts on Thailand  from the Coffee Archives:
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Thailand, My-My Those Gorgeous Elphis .... Interlude Number 2


A visit to Chiang Mai for me would be marked finito only after having visited the majestic elephants of this region. For an elephant blessing. And by blessings, I mean literally, to get a knock on my head from one of them. Okay, let me clarify. A friendly knock.  An affectionate pat.


There are two popular places for you to explore if you want to get close to these mammals, learn about and take selfies with them.  These are at the elephant rehabilitation centres/sanctuaries or at the elephant camps.  Most of the country’s elephant camps are located in the northern and western regions.  Having lived side by side with the humans over the centuries, the elephant has become and, still is a part of the Thai culture and icon. 


The elephant, my friend, is a  dear and intelligent animal. An elephant can express empathy, just like many human beings do, for another elephant and, sometimes even for another dying or suffering animal. These exotic mammals are not only affectionate but also very intelligent. Did you know elephants have extraordinary memory? Elephants can remember events up to a lifetime.  Seriously! And speaking of which, an elephi has a lifespan of 70 years when in the wild. So there now. All I can say is, try not to tease one too much. You may end up with a painful bump on your head instead.


Elephants all over the world are herbivorous. They usually feed on fruits like bananas and bamboo shoots.  Since they love to eat, just keep feeding it with banana, and I am pretty sure your image and touch will be registered in its memory, and you'll get an awful lifelong worth of pats. Ahh, isn't that sweet?

The elephants of  South Asia and Southeast Asia are known as the Asian ones.  They are smaller than their cousins in Africa (African -  bush &  forest - elephants). 

Home for the Southeast Asian elephants is in the tropical and sub-tropical forests.

Sadly today, as more and more of their homes are claimed by humans for further development and, as poaching and, the greed for Ivory intensifies, both the Asian and African elephant numbers are declining rapidly.  Asian elephants are classified as endangered whereas the African elephants are nearing endangerment. If this trend continues, our next generation will only be able to visualise these creatures through the wordy encyclopaedia’s.


There are only around 4000 elephants left in Thailand. And it is believed that half of them them are domesticated. This means they are captured from the wild, kept in confined areas (such as camps, circuses,) usually for entertainment reasons for tourists like you and me. Unfortunately, the process of domesticating these cuties is typically harsh. One of the methods used is called elephant crushing where the baby elephant is separated from its mother, then tied up, beaten ruthlessly and tortured to break its spirit. Once its spirits are cut, they are trained for domestic use. Disturbing isn’t it? We wouldn’t want this to happen to our children so why support this knowingly?  Elephant crushing is done behind the scenes of course, so visitors in general do not get to see this.  In his blog, Johnny FD shows us more about this in a video (Black Tusk: The ugly truth about elephant riding).  I have posted these links here to support this awareness.

https://youtu.be/gQuy3rRrjtM


To protect these endangered species nature parks have been set up. Elephant Nature Park in Chiang Mai is one of the elephant rescue and rehabilitation centres that was established in the 90’s. It is located 60KMs from the city centre. Some of the rescued elephants here had been previously abused or injured by humans or land mines. The park is open to visitors for day-trips. It also offers  volunteering opportunities. At the park, visitors can feed, play and can go on walk trails with the elephants. Do be prepared to get wet. Elephants are immensely over-joyed when in water. So, they tend to get rather playful. The park also acts as a centre to educate us on these creatures. Riding on elephants is a big no-no here. Elephants are built to pull weights. Their backs are not designed to carry heavy weights. Do think twice before you decide to sit on one.


I had visited Chiang Mai twice and on both occasions had visited different (but approved) elephant camps. In all fairness, I did not see any disturbing treatment towards these beautiful creatures. But today, I would think again before visiting a camp, knowing what torture the elephants had to endure for a chance to entertain me. Not all camps are bad and inhumane. In order not to support the malicious, please make sure the camp you visit is a government approved one. The pictures in this blogpost were taken during those visits. And, did I mention they were captured before the digital camera era? They were. Time flies.


My family and I have an awful lot of respect for these delightful creatures. Elephants have been part of my life since the beginning of time.  My first introduction was to Lord Ganesha, the Hindu Elephant God. And perhaps that’s why the elephant and I are inseparable.  Miniature elephants are still one of my top souvenir choices to get when visiting South Asia and other countries in Southeast Asia and, to also give away to dear ones. 


Elephant torture is not one I would support knowingly. Just because it’s an animal and it has no voice, it doesn’t give us humans the right to torture them for pleasure and greed. It breaks my heart to know what they have gone through to entertain me.

Would you do that to your child? Think about it over that cuppa. 💗💙💚💛💜💗
Other blog site references.
https://www.johnnyfd.com/2017/02/elephant-trekking-in-chiang-mai-tips.html
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Thailand, Doi Suthep, a Rhapsody .... Interlude Number 1


Chiang Mai is in the misty mountains of the Northern region of Thailand. This city was the capital of the Kingdom of Lan Na between 1229 and 1768. Chiang Mai is also notably the largest city in the north.

Chiang Mai is approximately 700KM away from the country's capital, Bangkok. There are domestic and international flights into Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is also accessible easily via road and rail. The day and night train services are pretty good. If you are travelling from Bangkok, you could opt for an overnight sleeper. Both the 1st and 2nd class sleepers are comfortable.

We are off to see Buddha

The atmosphere in Chiang Mai's is very relaxed and laidback.  Because of its elevation, it is much cooler in temperature here.

Now, let us head to a higher spot in Chiang Mai to see Doi Suthep.
Doi Suthep

 Doi Suthep or Wat Phra That Doi Suthep is the most well-known temple in Chiang Mai. The word Wat translates to Temple in English. Doi Suthep stands near the top of Mount Suthep. This temple was built in 1383. It is believed that King Keuna of Chiang Mai ‘s elephant had carried the relic of Lord Buddha. The place where the elephant stopped and placed the relic was the spot where the Doi Suthep.
Stunning!

How do you get to Doi Suthep?
  • Take a taxi or hire a private car to the temple base. The drive from Chiang Mai city is approximately 30 minutes long.
  • Take a local red bus (songthaew ) or tuk-tuk to the base.
  • From the base, visitors can either climb three hundred steps up or take a tram to the top.
Tram Ride

  • Follow the monk's trail - hike up to the base and then to the temple.  The walk is around 90 minutes each way.
Both, the climb up and the long tram queues, are worth the time! The atmosphere at the top is very peaceful, and the view of Chiang Mai city down below is inspiring. There are plenty of Kodak spots and moments to savour, so take your time.

Around Doi Suthep

The temple houses many beautiful murals and historic shrines. Look out for a white elephant shrine here. This shrine was built in memory of that white elephant, which I mentioned a short while ago.

The White Elephant Shrine

Inside the temple, keep an eye out for the White Marble Buddha and the replica of the  Emerald Buddha statues. Both are strikingly beautiful! The original Emerald Buddha is in Bangkok.
Emerald Buddha

 There are some general rules at the Doi Suthep temple:
  • No footwear, like shoes and slippers, is allowed inside the temple.
  • No short pants are permitted.
  • Be respectful of others and the temple.
White Marble Buddha

Some tips for this trip:
  • To avoid crowds, be there early in the morning. Doi Suthep opens from 6 am to 6 pm. 
  • Always carry a water bottle, especially if you decide to climb the steps or hike all the way up. 
  • The trams can take about 40 passengers each time, but the service is rather quick. Queues can form steadily, but don't worry too much about it. 
  • Sarongs to cover exposed parts of the legs and shoulders are sold outside the temple entrance.
  • Visitors can get holy water blessings from the monk. Usually, a small number of bahts are offered in return as a token.
  • This is a peaceful place to do meditation. There are meditation courses available for those interested. Check the course schedule before your trip.
Hear those Bells chime.

Now that visit was tranquillising, right? Once you are back to Chiang Mai city, why not drift away again with some Thai massage to relax those aching muscles or, get revived with some Thai Iced Coffee.  Later, try a Khantoke set dinner (a traditional Lan Na Thai dinner), a cuisine this region is known for.

Revived! Thai Iced Coffee
That's it for now, see you soon. Have a great week and enjoy your cuppa. 💗💙💚💛💜💗




Blogposts on Thailand  from the Coffee Archives:




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