Kwai Chai Hong @ Panggung : A Nostalgic Alley to the Past

Kwai Chai Hong @ Panggung : Nostalgic Alley to the Past

Kwai Chai Hong is the latest tourist hotspot in town. The name alone aroused my curiosity, and I bet you have questions of your own. 

Let’s see what all the commotion is about.

Kwai Chai Hong @ Little Demon Alley.

Well, Kwai Chai Hong is located within the proximity of China Town. It has been a while since we last explored China Town, but hopefully you remember your way around. If not, let me jog your memory a bit. Do you remember those tasty delicacies we tried there? Roasted chestnuts and Air Mata Kuching, also called cat’s-eye drink? (No, the drink doesn’t come with an actual cat’s eye, but is made from a fruit that has a large seed similar to an eye. 😉) And what about the thrill of returning home with Gucci-filled suitcases? Bet those incredible bargains made losing your voice worth it.

Exploring the colourful  Kwai Chai Hong.

It’s easy to get to this neighbourhood. Just hop onto any bus or train heading to Pasar Seni station.

Heading to Panggung Lane (Lorong Panggung).

Ten pre-war shophouses along Jalan Petaling (Petaling Street) and Lorong Panggung (Panggung Lane) have been restored, and this area is our destination. 

Lorong Panggung is also known as Kwai Chai Hong, which means “Little Demon Alley” in Cantonese. Today, this neighbourhood is booming and has a classy, nostalgic vibe. Each of the buildings and lanes have been tastefully restored to recreate the late 19th and early 20th century feel. You will find several new trendy restaurants, charming cafes, decent hotels, and quaint hostels as you walk along these streets.

One of the many charming cafes at Kwai Chai Hong.

My two friends Libor and KM, whom I have worked closely with over the years, and I had originally planned to visit the Little Demon Alley together after our dinner in the same neighbourhood. Alas, a creative menu at Merchant’s Lane and years of untold stories got the better of us. We decided to try again another day.

Catching up at Jalan Panggung.

My curiosity to learn about Kwai Chai Hong has brought me back several times since. I wanted to get acquainted with these demons myself.

Little Demon Alley, you said? Yup, that’s right. There are two theories on how this place got its nickname. The first is that the migrant workers from China in this area referred to the mischievous children of the neighbourhood as little demons. The second theory suggests that this neighbourhood was once known for notorious gangsters and illicit activities. I prefer to go with the first.

Little Demon Alley.

The entire area is an Instagram-friendly place, with many large murals inside the alley. When you go, have your cameras and mobile phones ready.

Large murals.

To see the back alley, you need to cross a small red bridge. The alley is open to the public from 9:00 a.m. to  midnight every day. Entrance is free.

The small red bridge. 

How often do you get to see a functioning century-old lamp post? Remember to look out for the only surviving one from the early 1900s. Don’t miss this — its right after you cross the bridge!

Century-old lamp post.

Inside, you will be reminded of the world of yesterday. Did you notice the murals? Each mural will transport you back to the daily life in the early 20th century. 

  • There was a queue at the barber’s, so I suspected he was good. I waited my turn to try something new, hoping it’d turn out well.

Alas, my turn.
  • That was a long wait, indeed. Do you see the stars in the sky now? Despite needing to leave, I couldn’t resist getting a picture with the skilful calligrapher who helped me draft some long-overdue letters.

Write me a letter.
  • Soon it was time to say goodbye to everyone and to the little girl at the window. “I’ll be back. That’s a pinkie-promise,” I tell her.
See you again.

Time for some coffee time after returning to today-land! I opted for a local brew at one of the newly-restored shophouses-turned-cafes. It’s a Hainanese white coffee (Nanyang style). Hainan coffee was brought to Malaysia (known as Malaya back then) by the Chinese from the Hainan region of China. Today, Hainan coffee is a popular breakfast choice in Malaysia.

Coffee at today-land!

According to the restaurant employee where I had my drink, Kwai Chai Hong only recently opened to the public.  

And, here are a pictures of a few more cafes in the neighbourhood.

Long queues, notice the name? 

Look, tarts! Delicious, I am sure.

Pretty yellow tarts.

Earlier on my way from the train station, I spotted a building that had previously been the post office of Jalan Panggung. This building too had been restored.

Post office of Jalan Panggung.

What a day, what a coffee and what a year it had been! 2019 just zoomed by. I hope you had fun exploring and revisiting the past. 

How important it is to keep these memories close as we embrace rapid progress around us! Everything is precious, and so are our bonds we have with people, pets and places. All that is precious to us survive the test of time. Memories! Counting Stars, Reaching Delphi!

See you next year. Enjoy the holiday season!

Enjoy the holiday season!

See you again next year!

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