She Glitters the flow, She Does. Cauvery!

If you are flying into Tiruchi during the non-dry season, then quick — land yourself in that prize-winning seat next to the window. Just a few minutes before touchdown, look out and prepare yourself for a spectacular view of the river that glides just below. That’s the Grand Cauvery.

Cauvery @ Kaveri 

Around Tiruchi

Tiruchi is the 4th largest municipality in South India and it sits right in the heart of Tamil Nadu state. You’ll find many higher education institutes and large industrial units here. Its recorded history dates all the way back to the 3^rd century BC during the rule of the Cholas. It had also been ruled by many other dynasties and superpowers over the years, and each has left a hint of their existence among the culture, people, and architecture. I’d been here several times and even more in recent years thanks to Air Asia and Malindo Air, but each time the visits are usually only for a short stopover. Every time I fly in, I look forward to a glimpse of that glitter slithering below. The sight of Cauvery never ceases to amaze me. And this time, I touched her.

About Cauvery

Cauvery, along with her sisters — Mahanadi, Godavari and Krishna — make up what is known as the Peninsular River system in India. Some trivia facts about the 765 km long Cauvery.

• She is commonly known as Kaveri in India. Cauvery is the British name for the same river. The Kaveri is also easier to spell for non-spelling bees like myself

• She originates from Kodagu in Karnataka (a neighbouring state West of Tamil Nadu) and flows south-east into Tamil Nadu

• The Cauvery river basin covers 4 states — Karnataka, Kerala, Tamil Nadu and Puducherry

• Cauvery drains into my good ‘ol pal, the Bay of Bengal

• Just like the other Peninsular rivers, Cauvery too originates from the Peninsular Plateau

• It is known as a seasonal or perennial river and is mainly rain fed. During the wet/rainy season, the river fills up. During the dry months, the river show the signs of being unfed, so if you are flying in during the dry months, you will not get the same view from 10,000 feet above

• It is said that these Peninsular rivers are even older than the Himalayan rivers

• Kaveri is a popular Hindu name for girls, and it means the life, river, naturally 😊

• It is a holy river in South India. On new moon or Amavasya days (which are once a month), many local Hindus come here and offer special prayers for the worship of their forefathers.

Around the Cauvery, me, the goods keeper and the udupi coffee

My task today was to take care of everyone’s belongings (those of my parents and cousins) while they went in to take a dip in the river. Here’s where, later, I touched some of this precious water myself. Warm, complementing the hot weather. The only other two times I remember feeling any river water was when clumsy me accidentally lost my balance and fell in. Not pleasant, but this happened years ago.

Just outside are plenty of vendors selling flowers and vegetables. I also noticed they like their coffee as much as I do too. There are plenty of coffee and tea stands to fulfil the demanding caffeine needs, and this sight made me tremendously happy. Since I had two already, I couldn't have any more for the hour. The stall operators didn’t mind and were more than happy to let me watch them prepare the drinks and to pose for a picture or two. See if you can find the coffee in these shots. 

Specially for the readers.

In one of these pictures, you can also see an aunt (mami) holding a flask of special home-made Udupi-style filtered coffee. A couple of years ago, her husband took my cousins and me to one of the best Udupi coffee restaurants in Tamil Nadu. She remembered and prepared this one for us 😘.

The next is a picture taken at our family home near Pudukkottai.  My mom made me this great piping hot filtered coffee this morning. The beans were freshly ground in Tiruchi. It has the right consistency and taste. The atmosphere here is calm, away from the busy Tiruchi and KL. The air is a lot cleaner here, and I feel so relaxed. The coffee, can’t say more, it’s a good choice for sure.😍

Relax!!!

When in Tiruchi or anywhere south of Tamil Nadu, remember to get yourself some Paneer Soda. This is a rose essence carbonated drink. I like Kalimark’s, though I don't fancy the green bottles they are packaged in. This branding reminds me of Sprite, but I feel they can confidently go with a different image because their drink tastes even better. Look, here’s a picture for you. I have already had 3 within the last 8 hours. Well, it's hot, and those empty bottles speak a lot for themselves right now.

Refreshing Paneer Soda

There are plenty of things to do in Tiruchi. A visit to the Rock Fort Temple is one of them. The temple was built in 580 AD on an ancient 83m high rock by the Pallavas. The temple changed hands several times over the years under the different rulers of the period — Pallavas, Pandyas, Cholas and the Nayaks. Plenty of steps to climb here. Be fit, and more importantly choose the right timing because it does get hot in the daytime. The climb up to the Ganesha temple is a rewarding one — a spectacular view of Tiruchi.

Rock ye, Rock ye Fort

The Sri Ranganathaswamy Temple (Sri Rangam) is the largest Hindu temple in India and the biggest functioning temple in the world. It is surrounded by the Cauvery on one side and the Kollidam on the other. The magnificently structured temple is situated in the little islet formed by these two rivers. The temple's early inscriptions date back to 1 AD. The temple was rebuilt in the 14th century and then fortified and extended in the 15th and 16th centuries. It spans 0.63 km. One would have to pass all 7 concentric walled sections to reach the Raja Gopuram, which is 73 metres tall, and this is where the main deity is. There are 21 Gopurams (tower gateways) in total. Between each walled sections are little shops, coffee stalls and restaurants.  The temple, first built during the Pallavas reign, is dedicated to Lord Vishnu.

Also, near Rock Fort Temple is an ancient church constructed in 1840, Our Lady of Lourdes Church.  This is a Roman Catholic basilica. The church stands grandly on a busy street in the centre of the city, she is very pretty, and if you pass by without noticing or looking twice at her, I would be surprised. This is a large Gallo-Catholic designed church. The church conducts holy masses every day, and anyone can join in.

Lady Of Lourdes

Shopping is always one of the welcoming delights for travellers and visitors. Tiruchi offers a good selection of clothes, fabric, saris, sweets & snacks, silverware and other Indian products. The rule is simple, arrive with empty suitcases, and fill them up here.

If shopping doesn't get you excited, there is always a coffee and tea shop nearby — grab a glass (or tumbler), sit along the Cauvery’s banks and listen to her poems as she whispers and do enjoy your drink.

Have a good week. 💗💓💗

Traffic Signals, Is It F1 Again?

Today I am home again and up early to see the sights and hear the city before the honking of cars invade my ears. This walk is just as characteristic as the previous one. My pace is slow, so stay with me; it’s Sunday. Enjoy your coffee; there are just so many flavours to savour. It’s not F1 or GP motor day, so there is really no reason to rush.

Before we begin, let’s get energised. Backward and forward bend, roll your hips, stretch upwards.  We are ready.  Now, meet Rimau, our mascot for the 29th South East Asia (SEA) Games and 9th ASEAN Para Games which have been held here recently.  He is the Malayan Tiger, an athlete himself who symbolises Respect, Integrity, Move, Attitude and Unity among the participating countries and athletes. The SEA Games is a biennial sporting event involving eleven countries from South East Asia (Indonesia, Cambodia, Brunei, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines, Singapore, Thailand, Timor-Leste, and Vietnam). During my commute from work a week earlier, I met Alex, a Malaysian who had just flown in from Sipadan Sabah where he works. He was a volunteer for the Para Games and he shared interesting stories and experiences leading up to the event.  I say to Alex and all the rest of the volunteers for both games – well done! The Games were amazing, and you guys made it happen!  

Go Rimau, Go Go Go!

The SEA Games is a biennial sporting event involving 11 countries from South East Asia (Indonesia, Cambodia, Brunei, Laos, Malaysia, Myanmar, Philippines,  Singapore, Thailand, Timor-Leste, Vietnam). During my commute from work a week earlier, I met Alex, a Malaysian who had just flown in from Sipadan Sabah where he works. He was a volunteer for the Para Games and he shared interesting stories and experiences leading up to the event. Alex and all the rest of the volunteers for both the games – well done, the Games was amazing, and you guys made it happen!  

I am all warmed up, filled with that super Rimau energy. I hop on a local bus heading to Pasar Seni LRT Station. This area is what was once known as the Klang bus stop area, a place the SriJaya/IntraKota/Kee Hup Omni buses and pink mini buses (buses from yester-years) used as a hub. The Klang Bus Station closed in 2011 to make way for the newly opened Pasar Seni underground MRT station.    

New Pasar Seni MRT Station

Just outside the LRT station is a small waiting area for a few designated buses to pick up and drop off passengers. One of them is the GoKL bus service. This is an incredible service initiated by the local government to improve the quality of public transportation in KL within the central business district. And guess what? The purple buses you see in the next picture are free for commuters.

I am free!

I would like to take the bus, but it can wait until another time. My walk continues.  I am on Jalan Tun HS Lee. This street is a long and historic one. Its presence is often overshadowed by the more popular Petaling Street (China Town). The street was originally called High Street, changed to be called Jalan Bandar, and then to what it is known as today.  I didn’t count, but read that there are over 200 old shop houses, preserved as part of the heritage, on this street. Some of them are better preserved than others. Many of them today are renovated and used as cafes and budget hotels. Well-established banks have also marked their presence along this street.

The Maha Mariamman temple was built in 1873. This is the oldest Hindu temple in Kuala Lumpur. The temple is open for all, any time of the year. It gets a tad bit crowded during Thaipusam, an annual Hindu festival, when thousands of pilgrims who follow the Silver Chariot procession up to Batu Caves begin the journey here. Today, the entrance is decorated with two plantain trees indicating there is a special prayer and all are welcome.  The chiming of bells have started, meaning the homam is about to start. Outside, the flower stall vendors are preparing the jasmine garlands for the poojas. I have also included some night shots on this page. I hear the mantras being recited. It’s time for me to go in.

Maha Mariamman Temple

Guan Di Temple is a beautiful deep-red Taoist temple, less than 50 meters away from The Maha Mariamman temple. It is believed that the copper Guan Dao (Chinese pole weapon) here has special powers to bless and protect a person who touches it or to turn luck around. Well, this can only mean one thing. I need all the good luck I can get so I am going in. From where I stand, I see the coils of incense smoke puffing through the door and along with it, a soft fragrance that tickles my nose buds. The temple was built in 1887. It opens at 7 am, and stays open until 7 pm. 

Guan Di Temple

Next, I pass by the famous Petaling Street, or what you now fondly know as China Town. I was quite surprised to see some stalls opened early for business. Louis Vuitton, Rolex watches, Nike shoes, you name it, and they have it😊. The catch is, these are all counterfeit, but look close to the real thing.  The challenge is to make sure you don’t buy something that looks fake and to get it at the lowest possible price, even if it means having to lose your voice in the process.  I remember proudly showing off my Ralph Lauren watch once, and my friend flashed out her original in response. Oops! Well what can I say? I was young and naive then. Today, I am happy with just the functional basics – it just needs to do the job sweetheart; just do your job and not be too pretentious.

Perfecting the negotiation skills

China Town at night is more entertaining. With the lights out, the haggling intensifies, serious negotiations start, and you can begin feeling the energy of China Town as the ringgits exchange hands and the goods are handed over. Yay! A Michael Kors. 

When here, try the local food – you’ll get the best Soya Bean milk in town (trust me, its original–no fake beans used), freshly roasted chestnuts, and seasonal fruits. You can also find local restaurants serving freshly cooked dishes. China town has been the hub of traditional florists for a long time. I am transported back to my school years when my classmates and I visited every florist in China Town and Pudu to search out roses for the school’s rose-request fundraising project. That was a lot of work, but it sure was fun.  

I like them all.

The sight of roses makes one smile and yet that same rose could stir up strange and interesting tales after. Thank you for the bunch 💛💗💚. 

Well, if you are here and still don’t know what to get, pick up the T-shirts–they are a best seller. Most importantly - bargain😉.

At the end of China Town, at the intersection, you see more heritage buildings. You can see these buildings in the next picture; there is another tall building that looks like a number ‘1’.  That’s the Maybank Head Office, a place where I spent five years of my COBOL days. It was built in the 80s and each time I had passed by this place on my way to school, I made a wish to work here someday. Wishes do come true (given the right ingredient).

Always a number One!

I continued onwards to Central Market. Up until the 1980s this was a local wet and dry market. It was the biggest market in Kuala Lumpur then. Today it is a centre for culture, arts and craft. This is THE place to get a variety of Malaysian souvenirs all under one roof. On Saturdays, there are cultural shows and some days there are outdoor stage performances. Kasturi Walk is one of the more recent and welcomed extensions to the market area. You get a better glimpse of the Daya Bumi building from here.

What shall I get now?

     

After seeing all that impressive handwork, it’s time to make a move,  this time passing through another old heritage – Medan Pasar via Bangkok Bank area (Bangkok Bank had recently shifted its operations to another location) or Jalan Silang. This area was once popular for textile and goldsmith industry and you can still see some of these today. Jalan Silang was also the central pickup and drop-off point for the notorious pink mini buses before they were replaced with the safer options. One of these buses had hit me in my shoulder then, and ouch! That's why I have a reason to call them notorious!  My favourite cafe I mentioned earlier this year, Mcgoo Deli is just around the corner, but it will have to wait for another time. Right now my tummy is calling for a yummy banana leaf lunch.

Before that – let’s see a famous mosque – The Masjid Jamek (Sultan Abdul Samad Jamek Mosque). This pink and white structured mosque is one of the oldest in the city. It is located at the confluence of the Klang and Gombak Rivers. The mosque was designed by Hubback, the designer who had also designed the Central railway station, Majestic Hotel and the Bangunan Abdul Samad. The design is Moorish or Mogul. The mosque was officially opened in 1909.

My walk today ends at the original Little India – this is Leboh Ampang. Come here for good vegetarian banana leaf lunch meals. The choices are plenty. You can end with a nice glass of Indian coffee. I was super-stuffed so I skipped the coffee. Leboh Ampang was made famous by the Chettiar community who established their money lending businesses here.  Along with that came other small business setups. This area (old Kuala Lumpur) is not only the confluence of the two famous rivers, but also the confluence of the traditional and modern financial institutions. The buildings here are part of the preserved heritage; you’ll find many of them painted with vibrant colours.

Hurry, I am hungry.

I am at a crossroads, deciding where the next place should be. I walk up a bit more, onto Jalan Ampang where a famous Tamil Press head office once stood. Tamil Nesan was established in 1924. Many memories I have here, good ones. I had a personal and special bond with its founder and with a few close relations who dedicated most of their working lives here to bring this paper to the readers. I head back to that crossroad. Lights change, and more decisions are waiting to be made.

I am back. My coffee is an Indian one, a takeaway from nearby. It’s an I-am-whom-I-am-coffee. So, I didn’t need to add any enhancer. It is a perfect start to the new week. Have a great week ahead!

Room with a View.

Waking-Shaking You Up, Put On Your Best Pair

I love KL–KUALA LUMPUR! And that’s why today and for the next few weeks, we are at home exploring some of the older parts of this charming city.

Some know Kuala Lumpur as a metropolitan city that never sleeps. Some call her a city that always eats, and that’s how she grows and keeps on rising to expand her waistline to form what we call today the greater Kuala Lumpur.  The greater Kuala Lumpur’s area is covered by 10 municipalities surrounding Kuala Lumpur city and is today home to over 7 million people from various parts of the country and world.  And speaking of ‘eating’, one would hardly ever go hungry at any hour. Just drive out a couple of kilometres, and you are bound to bump into a friendly neighbourhood restaurant or stall.

There are newer parts of Kuala Lumpur which I also like, but our early morning walk today is to look at the older jewels. The time is 6.15 am. It’s a rest day, and the city is mostly ours for the next few minutes. 

My first stop is one I had passed by every single day during my secondary school days commute:  the Kuala Lumpur City Central Railway Station. Grab your perfect spot across the street, wait a few minutes and there! Watch that magnificent sunrise over the beautiful Neo-Moorish styled domes and horseshoe arches. The station is located on Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin (previously known as Victory Avenue). This was built in 1910 to replace an older station at the same site. The design of the station was undertaken by Arthur Benison Hubback, an English architect who had also worked on several other notable buildings in British Malaya. 

The station

This station was once the central station for long distance intercity commuters up until 2001 when the traffic was diverted to the new Kuala Lumpur Sentral (KL Sentral).  Today the station serves as a stop. The building also had a hotel to serve its passengers (Heritage Station Hotel). I did once have coffee at the coffee house at the Heritage Hotel some 20 years back, decades before I started my coffee trail blog.

The new day starts.

On my left, opposite the railway station, is another famous landmark, the Hotel Majestic.  Stay with me–there are lots of dates to digest here. Be assured, history was once one of my favourite subjects, and if you have read some of my other postings, you would realise that connection. This hotel originally opened in 1932 for guests. Just like the railway stations, this building’s architecture was also influenced by the transitional hybrid of neoclassical and Art Deco styles. The 51-room hotel then served as a more luxurious option compared to the Heritage Station Hotel across the street. In the past, Hotel Majestic had also been used for political reasons - as a transit camp by the Japanese occupation government and then years later as an important party and government meeting venue during pre- and post-independence from the British. 

A new life!

In 1983, the hotel was officially closed for business, and in 1984 the building was used as the national art gallery. In 1998, a new gallery was constructed and took over that role as the new National Art Gallery (on Jalan Tun Razak). A few years later, the Hotel Majestic was refurbished, remodelled, and once again became alive in December 2012. Today it has 253 rooms in a new tower along with 47 rooms from the original majestic tower wing. I don’t know what happened to the remaining four bedrooms.

Next to the Majestic Hotel, heading towards the direction of the city, is another Neo-Moorish styled building belonging to the railway station authorities. It is used as an administrative office.

KTMB Administrative Building

I keep to the path and approximately 200 meters away from the station is the National Mosque, a beautiful 16-pointed star green-blue roofed styled building that has a capacity for 15000 people. I learned a few more new details - the original structure was designed by a 3-person team (the UK and Malaysian architects) and was built in 1965. Its original roof was a pink structured one. If you have a picture of that, please do share it here. I would love to see it.

National Mosque

Keep walking, and you’ll pass by the Methodist Girls Secondary School, but you would not be able to see it from where you are, as it is quite hidden.  The school celebrated its 120th anniversary in grand style in 2016.

Across the street is the Daya Bumi complex, comprising a 35-story tower building and the General Post Office Building. Here is where you can get your first day covers or previous covers/special stamps, PO Boxes, and other special postal needs. Don’t ask why, I know I am not a celebrity, but I did have a dedicated PO Box for a very long time here in the 90s 😊 and this would indicate to you how often I’d come here in the past. I did not get any real mail, but it got filled with lots of marketing brochures. Both buildings have a white marble finish. This complex was designed jointly by two local architect companies. The design is Modern Islamic. It was completed in 1984. The tower is a commercial building. This was used as the main office for Petronas before the Petronas Twin Towers was built. ** At present, I don't have a close-up picture of the building, but you have a glimpse of it above (view with the railway station).

After the tunnel, you will find yourself in another historic landmark. Take a deep breath because this is a grand place. You’ll see a lot here, but let me help you visualise some of them. First Dataran Merdeka (Independence Square). Located in the square is the Royal Selangor Club founded in 1884, once the meeting place for educated and high ranking British colonial society. I think it is still difficult to get membership in this club 😉. It was at Dataran Merdeka on the midnight of 30 August 1957 that the British Flag was lowered and the Malayan flag was raised. To the north is St. Mary's Anglican Cathedral which was built in the mid-1890s.The cathedral is an example of English Gothic architecture. This is open for all visitors.

In front of Dataran Merdeka is the grand Bangunan Abdul Samad building. The building was first used in 1897 as government offices during the British days. The building also housed the superior courts of Malaysia (Federal, Appeal and High courts) up until the early 2000s. R.A.J Bidwell and Hubback were both responsible for its design. This is a 2-story building, stretching along Jalan Raja. This was the largest building in Malaya. There are three towers with copper-clad onion domes; the central one is the 41m high clock tower. This clock still functions today. It is 7.30 am now! 

Here I stand, tall and proud of who I am

The Dataran Merdeka area is usually closed to motor traffic on weekends, and this becomes a favourite hangout for tourists and locals. This is a common place for events of all scale – such as national day marches, flora parade, cultural shows, marathons and sporting events. During FIFA world-cup, live matches are shown here on the giant display, so join me and others for the next. This morning there is a group of super-bikers assembled here before the start of an expedition. I cheered them on as they left.

The Supporting Force

Kuala Lumpur is the national capital of Malaysia and is one of the leading economic powers in South East Asia. Tilt your head up. Across the river, the odds of sighting a local or foreign bank building nearby is good.  This area is also the financial centre of the country.   I am now at the end of Dataran Merdeka, and if I go straight north on this road, I’d be at the well-known shopping district. But it’s still too early to start spending.

The 'bank' of banks.

As I write this entry, though it was just a short walk, it has opened me up to a lifelong wealth of knowledge and a deep sense of appreciation for the roads I have travelled on and the greatness of the buildings I see every day.  And of course, as usual, there is always coffee for you and me no matter where. I am back home; the fragrant morning city air is still wrapped around me. I wanted something personal. I made myself a Normandy coffee, a recipe from The World Encyclopaedia of Coffee, a book my friend and colleague Joyce had lent me when she heard about my blog (and of course, not forgetting my sister for getting me that huge and heavy hardcover of the same. It survived TSA!! I will read every word of it!!).  Normandy coffee is a tangy-apple-spiced hot espresso, just right to absorb in all that well-flavoured history I learned today. It is named after a region in France known for its apple orchards.

Spice up the day with a Normandy

  

I hope my morning walk has set you on the trail of curiosity to explore your city and perhaps mine too someday. I can’t wait to hear your experience, so tell me more about it. Until then enjoy the walk, take in your city, enjoy your cuppa, maybe a Normandy, and have a good week ahead.

* Note: references are made to online archives for historical facts.

A Poet, A Monk and the Rock-Star!!!

My next coastal stop in India is Kanya Kumari, located at the southernmost point of the Indian subcontinent. For centuries this place was the centre of art and religion especially during the reign of the great kings of Cholas, Cheras, Pandyas and Nayaks. Today it remains an important pilgrimage site in Tamil Nadu state. The main industry here is tourism. Kanya Kumari is one of the few places in India where you can get a three-in-one smashing deal, it comes free but will last a lifetime of memories – to witness a glorious sunrise and sunset, and on full moon days witness the unique sights of simultaneous sunset and moon rises.

Kanya Kumari was formerly known as Cape Comorin during the British regime. Getting here is pretty easy.  The nearest major airport is in Trivandrum (in the state of Kerala) just about 100 KM away. A car ride on a fine day would be under 3 hours.  There are train and bus transfer options from major cities in India, the duration depends on where you board it from.

Around Kanya Kumari

Kanya Kumari is at the meeting point of three great seas – the Bay of Bengal, the Arabian Sea and the Indian Ocean. I found the centre of town to be very scenic and entertaining. Here, is where you’d want to be, amongst the famous Kanya Kumari Amman temple (for which this place is named after),  the view of the grand Thiruvalluvar Statue & Vivekananda Memorial Rock,  Gandhi memorial, the busy market site, and lots and lots of colourful crowds.

Coffee at the Arabian and hot hot spice, ouch!

In haste, we booked ourselves a resort which was not exactly at the centre and it was pricey. It was quite a walk from the hotel to the main centre, and yes, we were kicking ourselves after that. There are plenty of hotels, affordable and cheap, often with open rooftop balconies – for checked-in guests to have a nice cup of coffee or tea while enjoying a spectacular Indian sunrise or sunset. Nevertheless, we made it to the centre despite the heat and distance. Luckily, we got to visit the temple in time. After the essentials were fulfilled, sitting at the low walls and listening to the sound of the powerful crushing waves instantly revived our depleted energy levels. Also these are for sure more smashing great deals! To top the deal of deals, the coffee 😊.

A sea-breezed coffee with the great Poet himself

Meet Rajini, a mobile coffee seller on wheels, responsible for this coffee. That’s not his real name, but I call him that because he is a superstar and the coffee-making rock star of the day. I need not say more, the pictures below tell you why. He wore the biggest, brightest and sincere smile while making us the coffee. He was proud of that cup he served. I felt the power of those waves in his spirits. The coffee, Rajini – a perfect-7. If you are in Kanya Kumari, look out for Rajini, the rock star of coffee making. 😊😊

Find Rajini for Sea Breeze Coffee

I mentioned the Vivekananda Memorial Rock and Thiruvalluvar statue earlier.  The Vivekananda memorial, built in 1970, is dedicated to Swami Vivekananda, an Indian Hindu Monk, a key figure in the introduction of Indian philosophies of Vedanta and Yoga to the western world during the late 19th century. The memorial stands on two rocks, at sea, just ½ KM from the mainland. It is believed that he received his enlightenment on this rock.

Thiruvalluvar is a well-respected Tamil poet and philosopher who contributed to the famous Thirukurral, a work on ethics. Based on a linguistic analysis of his writings, it is believed that he lived between 4 BC and 1 BC. The Thirukurral in recent years has been translated into many languages. The Thiruvalluvar Statue is a grand 133 feet meters tall and is just as stately as the book.  It is 133 feet to denote the 133 chapters of the Thirukurral. The statue is next to the Vivekananda memorial.

Swimming across to the small island is not encouraged.  So, to get here, there are short, fun ferry rides for a small fee. The queues are long, do be patient. The visitors who I saw during my stay were mostly domestic ones, and these included loads of students on school excursions.

There are lots of food options, from rice to wheat based and mainly vegetarian. I preferred the smaller family owned restaurants.  Except for Rajini’s coffee, I found the meal prices, in general, to be slightly high.  The food was a lot hotter (chilly hot), and I guess the tourists here prefer this level of spice. Stock up on Eno, just in case.

On our way back to Trivandrum we stopped at a stall for some piping hot banana plantain fritters or valhakkai bhaji at Suchindram. Suchindram is another pilgrim town south most of Kanya Kumari district, just 16 KMs away. Only one word, yummy.

Unbeatable!

The Thanumalayan temple in Suchindram was built in the 17th century. It has spectacular architecture and exquisite artwork in stone. Photography is not allowed, but I am afraid I read that a bit late, so I'll only post one photo here.

Thats grand.

Another place that is a must-visit in Kanya Kumari district is the Padamanabhapuram Palace. According to wikipedia, this palace was believed to have been constructed in 1601 and then rebuilt by the founder of modern Trancore, King Anizham around 1750. The palace is regarded as a hallmark of Kerala Architecture. Although it is situated in Tamil Nadu, the palace belongs to the state of Kerala who maintain it.

Being with a King

The name Kanya Kumari brings me a mix of emotions. I could sit here all day, with you, with that great poet, watching and listening to the orchestra of three seas belting out their most powerful symphonies and feel the ancient forces watching over us. And that’s precisely what we did, remaining until way after sunset.

Lights came on. Kanya Kumari, we will meet again.

We will meet again.

Enjoy your coffee and have a great September.  

Dance to beat of the rain

It was Henri Stierlin through his pages of Hindu India (Taschen's World Architecture) who got me to see the ancient temples of India from a historical perspective. His detailed technical illustration of the old architecture explained the beauty behind the great stoned pillars and the influence the ruling kingdoms had on the designs. He not only captured the beauty and the soul of the place spot on but also led me on a journey to explore and appreciate this precious heritage for myself.


One of the magnificent temples which I have recently visited, and which was also illustrated in his book, is the Thiruchendur Sri Subramnayeswara Temple. The temple is located in Thiruchendur, a small coastal town under the Panchayat Raj Administrative system. I had been here on other occasions when young with my parents, years before I got this book.  Getting to Thiruchendur is easy – there are excellent overnight and day-passenger trains and bus services from all major cities in south India.  There is also a variety of accommodation, including free ones offered by independent organization groups.

Breath taking sights.

Thiruchendur is a small town so, getting around is easy – by foot or an auto (a three wheeler taxi). It’s a homely place, people are just so lovely and welcoming. Just as they welcome us unconditionally, we welcome the other creatures who share the walking space with us – the beautiful long-tailed (called a train) peacocks and peahens, working cows, temple elephants and the mischievous long-bearded goats. If you are patient, you may even see a peacock dancing. There is a saying that peacocks can feel the rain coming and their dance is a sign to the rest that rain is to come. When that happens, hold on to it, dance internally to that beat.

The temple has a seven-tier high tower gate (Gopuram), which was built facing the seashore (Bay of Bengal) by saints. Early inscriptions found here are believed to date back to 875 AD. In 1649 the Dutch briefly occupied the temple during their conflict with the Portuguese.

Photography is not allowed inside the temple, but the picture-perfect sun rises over the horizon are not to be missed. If you think you’d be alone at the wee hours, you’d be surprised. Accompanying you would be thousands of others, without cameras or cellphones, who are up early to say thanks to the sun for their existence. It’s a pleasure to just be there with them to feel that greatness and say thank you.

Coffee is always a treat in India. In Thirujendur, try one from Mani Iyer’s.  We usually have our meals and snacks here.  The coffee goes well with a tiffin meal such as dosa, and let me inform you, they have the best rava dosa I have ever had. As for the coffee, the key to a perfect one at Mani Iyer’s is a strong white. Sugar is usually added in. If you want less or don’t want any sugar, inform them when ordering. Traditional coffee in India is served hot,  white and with sugar. In my opinion, the style is similar to a ‘latte’ because of the way its prepared - hot milk with a coffee decoction added. The coffee amount is adjusted for its level of strength.

Tried 'em all. Its your turn now.

Hot drinks are appreciated by most in South India. It is common to see small vendors selling coffee and tea at their portable setups. I like these a lot. Their earnest effort to make a living in any small way tells me that the problems we face today are just a little test that we need to overcome now to handle the different opportunities we are handed over tomorrow. I have tried some of their coffee, I can taste that passion so strongly and I hope you do too.

A self-guided tour through dark temple corridors started by looking through the pictures of Taschen's world at Bangalore Airport where I picked this book up (back in 2000).  Now it’s travelled a world beyond with me. Those ancient bells chime as the sun rises, it’s another day. The ancient structures are speaking.

Enjoy your coffee to the sounds of the ocean and to the beat of the rain.

He made it just right. TQ!

Does Puteri really like the Sand

I sometimes can't get enough of the sun and sand. They are usually the deciding factors that veto the rest of the options when selecting a short getaway - it is simply a love for the ocean. If you and I have similar travel preferences, you'd be spoilt for choice of beaches in South East Asia. The only thing that would get in your way for that sea-breezed Pina-colada, are the forces of nature - the monsoon and typhoons. Since it's not yet that season, (time and budget on the alert radar), and more importantly the sun had been glorious over the last few weeks, it wasn't difficult to decide where to go for a day. And Port Dickson (PD) it was.

SunSet

Port Dickson is a coastal town located in Negeri Sembilan, 100 KM south of Kuala Lumpur. It's a rather quick 45-minute drive on the busy north-south Expressway to Seremban, and then a 30-minute scenic drive through the palm oil estates on the Seremban-Port Dickson highway. There are many similar destinations in the country, but because of its close proximately to Kuala Lumpur and easy accessibility, PD is positioned to meet the increasing domestic demands for weekend family outings and corporate team building events. It is popular among Malaysians and Singaporeans.

If you have some time to spare and a good book to read, try taking the KTM-Komuter train to Seremban and then take a short 2KM walk to the Seremban bus station to get a local bus to PD.  It would take you about 3.5 hours from Kuala Lumpur central station to reach your hotel if you don't make any other stops and don't lose your way. Alternatively, there are the frequent inter-city bus services from Kuala Lumpur to Seremban and then hop on to another local bus to PD. I had taken the train route on a few occasions and enjoyed the smooth ride each time — the travel budget – easy on the pocket for a casual traveller.

Do book your hotel early if you wish to stay there over the weekend. Even the most basic hotel would charge not ‘so basic prices’ during peak, and most weekends are considered peak hour.  Accommodation and food options are plenty to suit any budget. We had visited PD on numerous counts over the years, seen it grow over time from a small town with just a few hotels to what it is today – a place offering a suite of accommodations from a variety of apartments, hotels and backpackers’ hostels.

There are a few things to do around Port Dickson. This time around we visited an ostrich farm to see for ourselves these enormous birds up close and personal.  We made friends with the 4-year old Puteri, the friendliest Ostrich on the farm and met some of her other mates including a bunch of retirees. After petting some ostriches, rabbits, and donkeys, we were on the way to see the bird's eggs. Though these weren't laid recently, we still got to see one that hadn't hatched yet.  I would say it had an industrial strength shell. I stood on and jumped on it, and it wouldn't crack. My poor foot paid a dear price for that.

New Friends

Some interesting facts, these birds are native to Africa and are the largest living birds today. They can weigh up to 145kg and have very long necks. They do not fly, and no, they do not bury their heads when in danger. Though it was reported that ostriches had been spotted swimming in Australian waters (no one knows how they got there), I didn't see any displaying their swimming talents in PD. If you are curious to know how the bird tastes, the farm does offer ostrich meat dishes in the restaurant. They did not have the coffee I wanted to try on their menu.

Today, I am sharing two photo shots. First, one from far away, many miles away from sea level, sandy beaches, and long-necked ostriches. Bedoin. It's a shot taken by a colleague and friend who recently went on a cycling adventure up to Mount Ventoux, south of France. The air here is fresh, and the atmosphere is calm, making the coffee experience a relaxing one.  After many hours of cycling uphill to the top, it surely would have brought some relief when sipped.

At Bedoin

Next is a Get-Up-Uma coffee against the serene sound of waves splashing. Though I could be here forever, eyes closed, listening to the crashing waves - the reality of the coffee smell brought me back from that place far away.  The grey waters spoke to me of a hurried world, reminding me to pause a while. While Port Dickson and the ostrich farm may still be here tomorrow, not everything else may. There are so many over-riding priorities and over time, finding the equilibrium that fits one will become a necessity. The night before, the evening clouds cleared up making way for the stars to light up the skies.  I am hoping these are the same ones to find that stability.

Bliss

Pause, take your time. Enjoy the coffee.